Restaurant Review: St. George's Terrace Restaurant, Carrick-on-Shannon, County Leitrim

The financial downturn had a huge impact on the hospitality industry in Ireland. Whilst restaurants have always worked to tight margins, they were faced with even harsher economic realities during the recession and had to quickly adapt to avoid going under. Many of them changed their pricing structures, introducing early-bird deals and other initiatives. Chefs started using cheaper cuts of meat and other ingredients in new and innovative ways on their menus to tempt cash-strapped customers through the doors.

 

St. George's Terrace

‘Experts’ proclaimed that fine-dining was dead. I’m never quite sure what is meant by ‘fine-dining’ and for me delicious food is just good food but I accept that there are many different types of dining experience. One thing that I do believe is true is that people are more interested in food and where it comes from. As we claw our way out of the recession, there seems to a renewed optimism in the hospitality industry with quite a few restaurant openings over the past year. Many of these restaurants are outside the main cities, which is also an encouraging sign. People are keener than ever before to dine out and we should embrace this newfound optimism by supporting local restaurants and celebrating the great food that is being produced in many of them.

 

St. George’s Terrace Restaurant in the beautiful town of Carrick-on-Shannon in County Leitrim opened in late 2015. The restaurant is housed in an elegant red-brick Victorian building on the street from which it takes its name and has already gained a reputation for serving top-class food. The building was once home to a bank but it has been beautifully renovated and inside, comprises a number of high-ceilinged dining rooms, a comfortable bar area, kitchen and a cookery school.

 

Bread

The restaurant is co-owned by Manager Siobhan Smyth and Head Chef Dave Fitzgibbon both of whom have many years of experience working in restaurants and the hospitality sector. After studying Culinary Arts in Cathal Bruagh Street, Dave a native of Carrick-on-Shannon, worked in a number of fine-dining and Michelin starred restaurants before returning home to open St. George’s Terrace with business partner Siobhan.

 

We were greeted warmly by Siobhan and shown into the bar area where we examined the menu and had a Gin & Tonic each made using Gunpowder Gin (from local Shed Distillery in Drumshambo, County Leitrim). After some discussion we decided to go for the 9-course Tasting Menu (€75 per person).

 

We were then brought to our table in the downstairs dining room. Decorated in a fetching navy colour, the bar and downstairs dining room are spacious but still have an intimate feel. White linen table cloths adorn the tables and are in keeping with the sophisticated feel of the period dining room.

 

Goat's Cheese Foam

The meal kicked off with an exceptional Selection of Bread including a soda-style Wheaten Bread, Tomato Bread, Black Olive Bread, Bacon & Onion Bread and a Plain White. These were served in an enamel bowl and accompanied by a generous amount of butter.  Great care and attention had gone into making the differently shaped breads and each possessed a good flavour and was light and fluffy with a slightly chewy crumb. I was impressed. The breads were followed by an amuse bouche of Goat’s Cheese Foam whimsically presented in an egg shell. Light as air, the savoury mousse dissolved pleasantly on the tongue releasing a subtle goat’s cheese flavour.

 

Next up was the stunning looking Home Tea Smoked Salmon on Apple Jelly with Avocado & Cucumber, Horseradish Snow & Wasabi Caviar Things were getting serious here. It arrived to the table in a smoke-filled glass bell cloche which was ceremoniously lifted by our waiter before serving. Here two roundels of melt-in-the-mouth salmon were served with a silky avocado mousse, cucumber jelly and slightly effervescent horseradish ‘snow’. Tiny pearls of slightly fiery wasabi ‘caviar’ completed the dish and added textural interest. To accompany the amuse bouche and salmon we supped on glasses of a Grüner Veltliner, Weingut Malat, Kremstal (2014/15) (€36 per bottle) which, with its nose of citrus fruits giving way to crisp green apple on the palate, was wonderfully refreshing.

 

Pear & Blue Cheese Salad

The Grilled Asparagus with Pear & Blue Cheese Salad - a simple sounding dish - proved to be a well-considered plate of food containing nuggets of Crozier Blue were served alongside a sorbet also made from the cheese, slices of compressed pear and peppery nasturtium leaves. This was lovely light dish where the cheese was the star of the show.

 

Pan-Seared Foie Gras with Rhubarb Earl Grey Tea Jelly & Gingerbread Crumb had a festive feel to it and again was a plate with a lot of well thought-out elements on it. The foie gras had been expertly cooked and was buttery rich and wonderful to eat whilst the jelly proved some much needed acidity. Braised Belly of Castlemine Farm Pork & Cheeks, Crumbed Homemade sausage, Celeriac, Turnip Purée, Fresh Gooseberry was and equally good dish and like the foie gras rich on the palate. I particularly liked the soft, yielding cheek meat but the star of the plate was the homemade sausage which was nicely spiced and comforting to eat. With these dishes we had a Mâcon Uchizy, Cave Talmard, Burgundy 2014 (€35 per bottle) –a lovely un-oaked medium bodied wine with gentle citrus notes that went well with the food.

 

Foie Gras

For me, the Pan-Fried Fillet of Brill, Asparagus, Samphire, Beans & Fennel Pollen was the dish of the night. The fish had been simply cooked and was well-seasoned which brought out its inherent maritime sweetness. A deeply flavoured velouté added a luxurious note  without taking away from the flavour of the fish.

 

We were worried that the Breast of Thornhill Duckling, Fresh Apricot, Roast Parsnip, Toasted Almonds, Blood Orange Gel would be very heavy after the courses that had preceded it but the fresh acidity of the fresh apricots and tangy get mitigated its richness and we ate the lot. A Losada el Péjaro Rojo,Bierzo Do 2014 (€34 per bottle) with its lovely fresh flavours complimented the duck perfectly.

 

Thornhill Duckling

A duo of desserts finished our tasting meal. First up was a mini 99 Cone, filled with a wonderful vanilla ice-cream followed by Iced Blackcurrant Parfait, Redcurrant Sorbet, Meringues & Honey which I attacked with child-like glee.  Presented almost like a dessert version of a fruity pick-and-mix selection there was nothing on the plate that I could criticise as all the elements had been well executed. I’m a sucker for viscous dessert wines and took little persuading to indulge in a glass of Moscato Passito Palazzina, Il Cascinone, Piemonte 2012 (€5.50 per glass, €27 per bottle). I loved this beautifully balanced wine with its hint of overripe apricots.

 

Unable to consume anything else, Siobhan sent us on our way with a little bag of the Petits Fours we had been unable to eat. The next day I tucked into the excellent vanilla fudge, truffles and blackcurrant pate de fruit with my mid-morning cup of tea and relived some of the tastes from the night before.

 

Iced Blackcurrant Parfait

The food in St. George’s looks beautiful and has the ‘wow’ factor. Dave Fitzgibbon is a talented chef who displays a true respect for and understanding of the ingredients that he uses. Service is exemplary and makes you feel at ease. In many ways you don’t feel like a customer in Siobhan and Dave’s restaurant, but rather a much-valued guest.  St. George’s may have opened last year but if the food being served there is an indication of the state of the restaurant industry in Ireland, I think that we should all feel positive about the future.

 

St. George’s Terrace

Carrick-on-Shannon

County Leitrim

 

Phone: 0719616546

Website: www.stgeorgesterrace.com

 

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie

 

Petits Fours

Recipe: Gin & Tonic Drizzle Cake

Great British Bake Off is back and my Wednesday night viewing is sorted for the next few weeks. This year the competition is going back-to-basics and whilst the challenges set may be easier, judges Mary Berry and Paul Hollywood have said that they are going to judge the bakes to the highest standards ever.

 

I have been a huge fan of the programme ever since it first came on our screens in 2010, finding it a rich source of baking inspiration. After watching the first episode, I’m delighted that this year looks as good as ever. In the opening challenge the contestants were tasked with making their version of a drizzle cake. Amongst the various offerings was a Gin & Tonic Drizzle Cake but unfortunately the judges weren’t too keen on it as its baker Tom was a little heavy-handed with the alcohol.

 

Here is my interpretation of that cake but flavoured with a syrup made with gin so that most of the alcohol burns off but the flavours remain. I have baked the cake in a plain bundt tin but a 900g (2lb) tin will also work and I have topped the cake with citrus crisps made from thinly sliced lemons and limes.

 

INGREDIENTS:

 

Citrus Crisps:

1 lemon, thinly sliced

2 limes, thinly sliced

Icing sugar for dusting

 

Cake:

250g butter, softened

250g caster sugar

3 large eggs, lightly whisked

250g self-raising flour, sifted

Finely grated zest of 3 lemons

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

100ml tonic water

 

Gin & Tonic Syrup:

125ml gin

Juice of 1 lemon

150ml tonic water

100g caster sugar

 

Icing:

150g icing sugar

2 tblsp gin

 

METHOD:

 

Citrus Crisps:

1. Preheat oven to 80C/Fan Oven 60C/Gas Mark ¼. Place the lemon and lime slices spaced apart onto a silicon mat. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes.
2. Remove from the oven. Turn the slices over and dust with icing sugar. Return to the oven for a further 20-30 minutes until crisp but don’t allow to brown too much.
3. Dust with more icing sugar and allow to cool. The crisps can be made in advance and stored in an air-tight container.

 

Cake:

1. Preheat the oven to 170C/Fan Oven 150C/Gas Mark 3. Grease a plain 23cm bundt tin with butter and dust with self-raising flour - shaking out any excess - and set aside.
2. Place the butter and caster sugar into a large mixing bowl and cream together using a hand-held electric mixer until light and fluffy. Gradually add in the milk, mixing well after each addition.
3. Add the sifted flour and fold in along with the finely grated citrus zests. Finally mix in the tonic water to create a soft batter.
4. Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin, smoothing out the surface a little and bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes or until a thin skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the tin for 10 minutes before turning out onto a wire rack to continue cooling.

 

Syrup:

1. Place all the ingredients for the syrup in a small saucepan over a low heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and then increase the heat to high. Simmer for 8-10 minutes until reduced by half. Remove from the heat and set aside for a few minutes.
2. Meanwhile, using  a thin skewer, poke holes all over the top of the still-warm cake and then carefully spoon over the syrup allowing into soak into the cake. Allow to cool completely.

 

Icing:

1. Mix the icing sugar and gin together in a small bowl to achieve a pouring consistency. Spoon this over the cake, letting it drizzle down the edges of the cake. Let the icing set a little and then decorate the top of the cake with the citrus crisps.

 

Serves 10-12.

 

Restaurant Review: Knox, O'Connell Street, Sligo

Fashions come and go and this is as true in the restaurant world as it is on the catwalk. Over the past few years we have witnessed the ‘burger revolution’, the growth in popularity of cocktails and a move towards less formal dining. Moreover, they say that travel broadens the mind but it has also broadened our palates and as foreign travel becomes more commonplace we want to visit restaurants at home that remind us of the food that we have eaten on our trips abroad. In particular, tapas menus, based around small shared dishes, have really caught on and their popularity looks set to continue.

 

Knox

Tapas originated in bars in Andalucia in the south of Spain where sherry drinkers would be given a piece of bread to place over their glasses in order to keep the flies out. In fact, the word tapas comes from the Spanish verb ‘tapar’ meaning to cover. Over time, cured meats, seafood and roasted vegetables were also placed on top of the bread to tempt patrons as bars competed for customers. As the popularity of tapas grew throughout Spain, different areas added their own regional influences and a new food genre was born. We now think of tapas as consisting of a wide range of small dishes or snacks encompassing a variety of tastes and flavours in one meal.
 



Patatas Bravas

During the day, Knox, a small, independent-run restaurant in Sligo Town, operates a breakfast and lunch menu but in the evenings (Thursday to Saturday; 6-10pm) it also serves its Knox@Night tapas menu. Located right in the heart of Sligo on O’Connell Street, Knox has quickly built up a loyal customer base since first opening in May 2015. It seems that the town has developed a taste for tapas and booking is advisable as many ‘walk-ins’ were turned away from this popular spot during my recent visit, as there were no  available tables.

 

Our first impressions of the restaurant were good and both Paula - my dining companion for the evening – and I agreed that with its dark decor, wooden tables and ambient lighting, Knox has successfully replicated the feel of authentic Spanish tapas bars. An outside dining-area provides extra space and would be an ideal place, weather conditions permitting, to dine al fresco.

 

Squid

The menu contains some interesting dishes and is divided into sections covering ‘nibbles while you wait’, sharing boards and dishes ‘from the ground’, ’from the sea’ and ‘from the field’. These are keenly priced ranging from €3 for nibbles to €14 for the most expensive dishes which include lamb, hake and sirloin steak. Unsure about which dishes to order we decided to prioritise our wine choice plumping for a gutsy Spanish Santa Maria Tempranillo Rioja, (€7 per glass/ €27 per bottle) from the concise but carefully chosen wine-list.  As we sipped on glasses of this full-flavoured wine we tucked into a platter of Artisan Breads & Dips (€4) which included a white bread, one flavoured with tomatoes and a wonderful version made with ham.

 

Our waiter advised us to order a couple of dishes each to start but reassured us that we could order more at any time during our meal. He also informed us that the food would not arrive all at once but that each dish would be served as it was cooked. First to arrive was that old tapas stalwart Patatas Bravas (€5) which contained a generous amount of well-seasoned baby potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce along with a garlic aioli. Too often this classic tapas dish can be a bit oily and the potatoes can lack texture but this version was very good and we wolfed down the lot.

 

Pickled Watermelon

The potatoes were quickly followed by Squid, Lemon, Aioli (€8) which was truly excellent. I am always wary of ordering squid as it is so easy to overcook, becoming rubbery in the process and reminiscent of chewing on large elastic bands. This dish was fantastic and quite possibly one of the best squid dishes that I have ever eaten. I loved the piquant, spicy coating and the soft, yielding texture of the perfectly cooked squid.

 

Our next dish of Pickled Watermelon, Mint, Poppyseed (€6) provided cooling relief after the spiciness of the patatas bravas and squid as did the Cos, Chicken Skin, Blue Cheese Dressing (€5) which contained nice chunks of creamy blue cheese with crisp leaves of lettuce. A crumb of crispy chicken skin added textural contrast.
 



Cos, Chicken Skin, Blue Cheese Dressing

Pan-Fried Scallops, Ham Hock Terrine, Crispy Chicken Skin, Apple Gel (€13) was something a little different from the scallop dishes available in so many restaurants these days. Here three plump scallops were served on a discs of ham hock terrine and topped with a crispy chicken skin crumb. I loved the flavour combinations and the way the saltiness of the crumb counterbalanced the sweetness of both the scallops and ham. A slick of tangy, slightly acidic apple gel completed the dish.

 

With ‘you only live once attitudes’ we decided to order another couple of dishes. Slow Roast Pork Belly, Black Pudding, Apple, Carrot & Anise (€11) was a huge hit with both of us. Well-rendered and meltingly soft pork belly still managed to have a crispy skin and was deeply satisfying to eat, but it was the accompanying deep-fried black pudding bon-bons that had made us groan with delight. With their crunchy bread-crumb coating and soft but full-flavoured meaty centres, they were heavenly.

 

Scallops

The Seared Duck Breast, Vanilla & Rhubarb Purée, House Granola, Kale (€13) was another meaty offering which we devoured despite feeling quite full. The portions in Knox are generous and in many ways our waiter’s advice was spot on; four and five dishes between two people would probably suffice. We ordered far more but this was purely in the interests of research (ahem), as I was keen to sample a number of the dishes.

 

We finished with something sweet and as the evening was warm and dry asked whether we could conclude our meal at one of the outside tables. Our request was granted without any bother and we spent an enjoyable hour chatting together outside as we watched passers-by and ate our desserts. My Churros, Chocolate Sauce, Vanilla Bean Ice-Cream, Crushed Praline (€7) was, like the rest of our meal, well made and with my sweet tooth, I thought it was fabulous. Paula’s Salted Caramel Liquor Affogato (€8) was also excellent and a sophisticated way to finish the meal.

 

Duck

I loved Knox. The menu has been well thought out and contains dishes that are full of bold flavours that immediately conjure up memories of my Spanish holidays. I also loved the relaxed atmosphere in the restaurant and the friendly service delivered by staff who really seem to enjoy working there. The rise of tapas-style dining goes hand-in-hand with the trend towards social eating. I believe that sharing food connects people and brings us together and that tapas encourage conversation because diners are less focused on eating an entire meal. Modern life can be hectic but restaurants like Knox which provide top-notch food and encourage conviviality should be celebrated.

 

Knox

32 O’Connell Street

Sligo

 

Telephone: 0719141575

Website: wwwknoxsligo.ie 

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie

Pork Belly

 

Recipe: Pineapple & Passion Fruit Pavlova

Fresh pineapples and passion fruit are easy to get your hands on at this time of year and are relatively inexpensive to buy. I normally prefer to use Irish fruits and vegetables in my cooking and baking but I find it hard to resist the seductive flavours of these tropical fruits. Our summers may be largely non-existent but this delicious dessert always makes me think of sun-soaked beaches and hot climates. The recipe may seem a little tricky at first but it is much simpler to make than it looks. If you like you can omit the passion fruit curd and fill your pavlova with just the pineapple.

INGREDIENTS:

Pineapple Flowers:

1 whole fresh pineapple

Pavlova:

6 large egg whites

375g caster sugar

1 level tblsp cornflower

1 tsp white wine vinegar

Passion Fruit Curd:

6-7 passion fruit to make 125ml passion fruit pulp, seeds sieved out

½ lemon, juice only

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

75g caster sugar

65g butter, cubed

To finish:

250ml single cream, gently whipped

Fresh pineapple chunks (off-cuts from making the flowers above)

Passion Fruit Curd (see above)

Pineapple Flowers (see above)

Pulp of two fresh passion fruits

METHOD:

Pineapple Flowers:

1. Preheat the oven to 100C/Fan Oven 80C/Gas Mark ¼.
2. Cut the top off the pineapple and, with the pineapple in an upright position, carefully remove the skin using a sharp knife.
3. Place the pineapple on its side. You will notice that the pineapple ‘eyes’ run diagonally around the fruit. Using a sharp paring knife make v-shaped cuts along these rows to remove the eyes.
4. Once the pineapple has been peeled, start slicing it to create this slices about 2mm-3mm in thickness. Place the pineapple slices onto some kitchen roll to absorb excess moisture and then place on to baking trays lined with silicon mats or parchment paper. Make sure that the pineapple slices do not overlap.
5. Place in the oven for 60-80 minutes, flipping the pineapple slices halfway through so that they dry evenly. The pineapple slices will shrivel slightly during the drying process but will feel papery when sufficiently dried.
6. Remove the trays from the oven and using a palette knife carefully lift each pineapple slice off. They will remain malleable while they are still warm and you will be able to shape them into flowers using a muffin tin. Allow to cool and dry completely. Store in an air-tight container until required.

NOTE: Keep any fresh pineapple offcuts for filling the pavlova.

Pavlova:

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/Fan Oven 160C/Gas Mark 4. Draw a 20cm circles onto each of three separate sheets of baking parchment  and use to line three baking trays making sure that the circles are on the underside (you’ll still be able to see them through the paper). Set aside.
2. Place the egg whites into a large mixing bowl and using a hand-held electric mixer whisk them to the soft peak stage. Gradually add in the caster sugar, whisking well after each addition to create a glossy meringue which holds its shape.
3. Sift over the cornflour and add the vinegar, mixing briefly so that they are just incorporated.
4. Spoon the mixture, dividing it equally, onto the three prepared baking trays using the circles that you have drawn as a guide. Smooth the surface of two of the meringue discs but keep aside a few tablespoons of the meringue mixture for the final disc. Pile this in little blobs over the top of the final disc, swirling each blob gently with a fork or cocktail stick. This will be the top layer of your pavlova.
5. Place the baking trays into the preheated oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 120C/Fan Oven 100C/Gas Mark ½. Bake for 1 hour exactly and then turn off the oven. Allow to cool completely in the oven before removing.

Passion Fruit Curd:

1. Whisk together the passion fruit pulp, eggs, yolk and caster sugar in a bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Stir continuously with a wooden spoon for approximately 10 minutes until thickened. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter.
2. Pour into a sterilised jar and store in the fridge for up to three weeks.

 

To Finish:

1. Carefully peel the parchment paper off the meringue discs. Place one of the plain discs on your serving plate/cake stand and spoon over half the cream. Scatter over half the pineapple chunks and a few teaspoons of the passion fruit curd. Lastly, drizzle over half the passion fruit pulp. Top with the other plain pavlova disc and repeat. Finally top with the remaining pavlova disc and decorate with the pineapple flowers.

 

Serves  8-10 people.