Tuesday, 13 October 2015

Smoked Haddock Chowder

Anyone who reads my blog regularly or has browsed through the recipes here will know that I am a big fan of soups. There’s nothing more nourishing and comforting to eat on a cold and wintry day than a big bowl of steaming hot soup. Whilst there are many wonderful chilled soup recipes out there such as Vichyssoise and Borscht, I love soups that warm your very soul and make you feel good from the inside out!
 
I find it hard to understand why people spend so much money buying packet or tinned soups or even  fresh soups from the chilled section in the supermarket when it is so easy to make your own at home. In most cases, they can be made in little time using ingredients that are relatively inexpensive.
 
My gang love the Cream of Vegetable Soup that I make using potatoes, carrots, onions, and leeks, but they also like my version of Minestrone Soup into which I add some pasta. Soups like the latter are a meal in their own right and require nothing more than some nice crusty bread as an accompaniment.
 
Chowders are creamy, thickened soups usually containing chunks of potato and can include other vegetables. Fish or shellfish are often used in chowders and here I have included smoked haddock which gives the soup a lovely smokiness which marries well with the creaminess of the soup itself. Along with the sweetcorn, the chunks of potato and the samphire this is a substantial dish which is incredibly tasty.
 
This chowder is inspired by the wonderful chowder that I recently had in The Vintage Kitchen which I was so impressed with. I am not claiming that this version is as magnificent as the one that I ate there but it is still incredibly delicious and relatively simple to make. The Vintage Kitchen’s chowder included samphire which I thought was an inspired addition so I have used it here too. Samphire can be a little hard to source, so if you can’t get your hands on some just leave it out – the chowder will still taste amazing!
 

Ingredients:

To poach the fish:
300g smoked haddock (preferably undyed)
350ml vegetable stock
1 bay leaf
Chowder:
50g butter
1 large white onion, finely chopped
200g potato, peeled and chopped into 2cm chunks
A large sprig of thyme
1tsp of Dijon mustard
250ml double cream
125g frozen sweetcorn
125g samphire, blanched and refreshed in cold water
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To finish:
Chives, finely chopped
 

Method:

To poach the fish:
1. Place the fish in a medium-sized but deepish frying pan, add the bay leaf and cover with the vegetable stock. Bring up to simmering point over a medium heat and allow to bubble away for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to stand for 5 minutes.
2. Carefully remove the fish with a slotted spoon but reserve the poaching liquid. Flake the fish into large chunks, removing and discarding any bones that you come across. Set aside.
Chowder:
3. Heat the butter in a large saucepan over a moderate heat and add the onions. Fry for 2 minute and then add the potatoes and thyme. Reduce the heat and place the lid on the saucepan. Allow the vegetables to sweat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until they have begun to soften.
4. Add the reserved poaching liquid and the Dijon mustard and allow to simmer uncovered, over a gentle heat for 10 minutes until the potatoes have softened but are not disintegrating.
5. Add the cream and stir through. Allow to simmer for a further 3 minutes and then add in the fish and frozen sweetcorn. Remove and discard the bay leaf and sprigs of thyme. Simmer for 3 minutes and then add the blanched samphire. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.
6. Serve sprinkled with chopped chives.

Serves 6.
 

Monday, 12 October 2015

Walnut Cake

I absolutely love walnuts and try to use them whenever I can in my cooking and baking. As a child one of my favourite cakes was the Coffee & Walnut Cake that my grandmother often baked when guests were expected but I can’t recall ever eating a cake where walnuts were the primary ingredient and ‘star-of-the-show’!

I was determined to create a cake that showcased walnuts and after a little experimentation, this is the cake that I came up with. It is packed full of walnuts but is still surprisingly light in texture. I am thrilled with how it turned out and can see it becoming a mainstay in my baking repertoire. Even my children, who can be fussy at the best of times, loved it… and believe me that is saying something because they are the most demanding of critics!
 
Due to the inclusion of a lot of nuts (and a good amount of butter) this is a rich cake but it has a unique flavour which will have you going back for more. Whilst it is lovely served on its own, it also makes a decadent dessert when served with a poached pear, a little salted caramel sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice-cream.

Ingredients:

175g walnuts
185g butter
175g caster sugar
3 large eggs, separated
175g self-raising flour, sifted
1 tsp vanilla extract
75ml milk
To finish:
12-16 walnut halves to decorate
 

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 160C/Fan Oven 140C/Gas Mark 2. Grease a 20cm round spring-form tin with butter and line the base with a circle of baking parchment. Set aside.
2. Place the walnuts on a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for approximately 10 minutes until lightly toasted. Check on them a couple of times to make sure they are not burning and give them a shake. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before roughly grinding in a food processor. Do not over process the walnuts as you still want them to retain some texture.
3. Meanwhile place the butter and sugar into a large mixing bowl and using a hand-held electric mixer, beat together until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks and beat again for another couple of minutes to ensure that they are well incorporated.
4. Add the sifted flour gradually, alternating with the milk to create a thick cake batter. Fold in the roughly ground walnuts and vanilla extract making sure that they are well distributed.
5. Using a clean bowl and whisk attachments beat the egg whites to the ‘firm peak’ stage. Add one third of the egg whites to the cake batter and mix in well. This will loosen the batter slightly and make incorporating the rest of the egg whites much easier.  Fold in the remaining egg whites using a large metal spoon. Stop once there are no large pockets of egg white remaining, but try to avoid over-mixing as this will result in a heavier cake.
6. Spoon the mixture into the prepared cake tin and level the surface using the back of a metal spoon or a spatula. Decorate the top of the cake with the walnut halves and bake in the preheated oven for 35-40 minutes approximately or until a thin skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean.
7. Allow to cool in the tin for 10 minutes before removing to a wire rack to finish cooling.

Serves 10-12.
 
 

Wednesday, 7 October 2015

Review: Afternoon Tea at Farnham Estate Golf & Spa Resort, Cavan

The luxurious Farnham Estate Golf & Spa resort is situated in spectacular countryside not far from Cavan Town and is a lovely mix between the old and the new. Period buildings sit comfortably beside the modern architecture of the newer parts of the hotel. This is a place where guests can enjoy contemporary comforts along with the traditions of years gone by.
 
Afternoon tea in Farnham Estate is an elegant affair served in either the Music Room or in the Middle Drawing Room in the original main house and is available between 1pm and 5pm daily. I was welcomed by Conor who showed me to my table in the Music Room which was dressed with a crisp white linen tablecloth. Seated on a large comfortable couch in the beautiful room which was tastefully decorated in soothing colours, I felt like I was in a different world.
 
Art Deco stand
The Afternoon Tea Menu is nicely laid out with a good range of sandwiches and pastries available. Scones are also included and come with raspberry jam, butter and clotted cream. At €25 per person it is reasonably priced. You can also elect to have a Champagne Afternoon Tea which includes a glass of Moet & Chandon (€40 per person) or Prosecco Afternoon Tea with a glass of Prosecco frizzante (€34 per person), which I decided to go for.  This was served with a small bowl of fresh ripe strawberries which I nibbled on as I sipped my Prosecco and decided which tea to choose.
 
There is a good choice of teas available including black teas, green teas and herbal infusions which are supplied by Ronnefeldt. Tea is taken very seriously in Farnham Estate with each, depending on your choice, requiring different ‘drawing’ times. Loose leaf tea is served in warmed china tea-pots and you are given a little tea-timer which indicates when your tea is ready to pour. Impressed by the selection available I eventually chose the Irish Whiskey Cream – a flavoured malty assam, this black tea has wonderful background notes of whiskey and chocolate. I absolutely loved it.
 
Smoked Salmon
As my tea was drawing, sandwiches, pastries and scones were delivered to the table by Conor. Presented on a pretty 3-tiered Art Deco cake stand they looked extremely tempting and I couldn’t wait to dig in.
 
The sandwiches, all of which use breads that are baked on the premises, are filled with an interesting combination of ingredients. I was very impressed with the breads as each was baked to perfection and full of flavour. The Multigrain Bread, Smoked Salmon, Lime & Tomato Mayonnaise was lovely and was beautifully presented as an open sandwich with the salmon formed into a rosette which was placed on the bread in a decorative fashion.  The mayonnaise was particularly flavoursome and complimented the salmon perfectly.
 
Ham, Cheese, Relish
The next sandwich – a Sour Dough, Porterhouse Cheese, McCarren’s Ham & Ballymaloe Relish was also very good with top quality ingredients used throughout. The mini sour dough baguette was excellent and I loved the sweet fruitiness of the Ballymaloe Relish with the well-flavoured cheese.
 
The final offering, and my favourite, was another open sandwich that looked stunning. Tomato Bread, Vine Cherries, Goat’s Cheese Mousse with Pistachio Crumb was heavenly to eat with flavours that danced in the mouth. All too often tomato breads are bland but this one was packed full of tomato flavour which accentuated the soft creaminess of the goat’s cheese perfectly. The pistachio crumb was a nice touch and added an extra layer of flavour and texture. Delicious!
 
Fruit Tart
At this stage I was feeling very relaxed and was thoroughly enjoying the whole experience so after a short hiatus decided to move on to the pastries. Again, these little bite-sized treats were beautiful to behold and it was obvious that a lot of skill and understanding of the processes involved had gone into making them.
 
The range of pastries was very good and included a Chocolate Brownie which was soft and chewy and made as a brownie should be and a light and airy White Chocolate Cheesecake topped with a tart lime jelly which cut through the sweetness of the white chocolate. These were both very good and well thought-out.
 
I also loved the little Tart with Vanilla Custard & Fresh Soft Fruit. The pastry crumbled pleasingly in the mouth and contrasted well against the creamy filling whilst the fresh fruit cleansed the palate. The tart tasted delicious and was extremely pretty to look at.
 
Carrot Cake
A very well-made Carrot Cake was the final pastry/cake offering. Iced with a sweet but slightly tangy cream cheese frosting this was extremely good. Too often carrot cakes are dry, lack flavour and are engulfed by too much icing. Here, the balance was perfect.
 
Scones provided the finale to the afternoon tea and were very good indeed. Light with a slightly chewy crumb, they were served warm which I really liked. Split and then spread with butter and jam and topped with a dollop of clotted cream, I truly felt as if I hadn’t a care in the world. With the scones, I decided to try another of the wonderful teas offered as part of the Farnham Estate Afternoon Tea and chose Granny’s Garden a fruity herbal infusion made with fresh rhubarb and vanilla bourbon. This was something different to what I would normally choose but I really enjoyed it.
 
Scone, Clotted Cream & Jam
Afternoon Tea in Farnham house was one of the most relaxing afternoons I have had in a long time. You are encouraged to sit back and enjoy the whole experience and you never feel rushed by the wonderful staff. My waiter Conor was highly knowledgeable on all aspects of the afternoon tea and the history of Farnham Estate. Ably assisted by the lovely Ronan, the two of them made the whole experience all the more enjoyable.
 
Radisson Blu Farnham Estate Golf & Spa Resort
Farnham Estate
Cavan
 
Telephone: 049-4377700
 
This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie
 

Tuesday, 6 October 2015

Restaurant Review: The Vintage Kitchen, Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2

Trying to get a table for dinner in The Vintage Kitchen proved a little more challenging than I had first anticipated. This is an incredibly popular restaurant which, it emerges, requires booking well in advance in order to secure a much sought-after table especially if you wish to dine on a Friday or Saturday evening. I eventually managed to get a booking for an early Tuesday evening sitting but was warned that my table would be required again at 9pm. Despite this, I was looking forward to dining there and to trying the food for myself.

Bread Selection
The Vintage Kitchen is located in the heart of the city next door to Mulligan’s, the iconic Dublin pub and is not far from O’Connell Street and the River Liffey. The restaurant has 35 covers but given the Lilliputian size of the premises, it’s hard to believe that it is possible to fit that number in at one sitting. Tables are placed extremely close to each other but this, along with its retro-kitsch décor, is part of the charm of The Vintage Kitchen. Dining there is like stepping back into your Granny’s kitchen to a time when Formica was all the rage.
 
The restaurant operates a very appealing BYOB policy charging no corkage provided you order at least two courses, including a main, from the menu. Doubtlessly, this plays a part in its popularity but the real test of a restaurant is the quality of its cooking and the food that it serves.
 
Goat's Cheese Parfait
The dinner menu which is available from Tuesday to Saturday each week is well-constructed and full of tempting classic comfort food dishes. I would quite happily have ordered any of them. As we waited on our starters to arrive we nibbled on slices of a very respectable Malted Wholegrain Loaf that came with a pleasant Hummus dip and chatted with an American couple who were holidaying in Ireland and were dining at the next table.
 
I loved my Boilie Log Goat’s Cheese Parfait starter which included a very generous portion of mild goat’s cheese which was delightfully creamy to eat. Sweet and earthy roasted beetroots accentuated the flavour of the cheese whilst slices of fresh apricot provided welcome freshness on the palate. I particularly liked the inclusion of caramelised red pearl onions which imparted a wonderful bitter-sweet stickiness that was hard to resist. For me, the slow-cooked tomatoes were redundant and added nothing to the dish but overall it was a lovely way to begin the meal. A warm and spicy wasabi dressing was something a little different and worked well.
 
Cod & Lumpfish Caviar
Erica’s starter of Donegal Smoked Haddock Chowder, Chorizo & Wild Samphire came presented in an individual soup tureen/bowl with its own lid which, when lifted, allowed the seductive aromas of the chowder to escape. With the smokiness of the fish and the spiciness of the chorizo, this was a dish that it would have been quite easy to get wrong but it was an incredibly well-balanced and a perfectly seasoned dish. I really enjoyed the addition of the samphire with its gentle flavour of the sea. Put simply, this was one of the most delicious chowders I have ever eaten and looking at the expression on Erica’s face I could see that she agreed.
 
Baked Crepe
My main course of Pan-Fried Atlantic Cod, White Beans, Roaring Bay Mussels, Cajun & Tomato Bisque, with Lump Fish Caviar was another substantial dish but one that was packed full of flavour. The flawlessly cooked cod came away in generous flakes which were lovely with the braised cannellini beans. The dish was beautifully presented and came served with a spoonful of lump fish ‘caviar’ which was placed on top of the cod in a scallop shell. The saltiness of the caviar helped balance out the sweet spiciness of the dish and provided a further layer of flavour.
 
Erica decided to go for the vegetarian main of Baked Crêpe, Carlow Field Mushrooms, Gorgonzola & Spinach which was served with sautéed baby new potatoes. Here, the crêpe had been placed in a small dish which was used as a receptacle into which the rich filling of blue cheese, spinach and sautéed mushrooms was placed before being baked. The dish arrived piping hot to the table with the cheesy filling bubbling away enticing us to dig in immediately. This was comforting and delicious food and the type of dish you would eat to warm you up on a cold and wintry evening.
 
Lemon Cheesecake
Portions are large in The Vintage Kitchen so, feeling quite full, I considered skipping dessert. However, the allure of the Lemon Cheesecake proved too much for me to resist, so we decided to share one between us. Served in an individual Kilner jar this was a surprisingly light mousse-like interpretation of a cheesecake which was topped with a thick layer of tart lemon curd and some boozy autumn berries. It was delicious. Between us, we polished it off. It was the perfect end to a hugely enjoyable meal.
 
Service was extremely efficient and was delivered in a charming and engaging fashion. The Vintage Kitchen is quirky and a fun place to dine in. Most importantly the food is fabulous and the dinner menu at €28 for 2 courses or €34 for 3 courses is extremely competitively priced.
 
The Vintage Kitchen
Poolbeg Street
Dublin 2
 
Telephone: 01-6798705
Opening hours:
Lunch: Tuesday to Saturday, 11.45am – 2.30pm
Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday, 5.30pm to 10.00pm

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie
 
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