Review: Afternoon Tea in Tankardstown House Hotel, County Meath

I’m on a bit of an afternoon tea odyssey at the moment; partly because I want to seek out and find the best places in Ireland to have afternoon tea, but also in large part because I just LOVE afternoon tea! Yes it’s something that is a little bit self-indulgent but I firmly believe that these treats, if experienced every now and again, make life all the more enjoyable.

 

I also believe that there are certain foods and dining rituals that elicit an emotional response from deep within us; these vary from person to person and in many cases are associated with foods that we ate when we were children or that remind of us of happy times in our lives. I defy anyone to tell me that they don’t have at least one food or meal that does this for them. When I was younger, I remember that when guests were expected, my grandmother would bake a range of cakes and scones and serve them with dainty little crustless sandwiches. I always loved these occasions and her version of afternoon tea.

 

I have always enjoyed eating individual sized portions of foods and I love having a choice of different foods to eat – that way I can get to sample a broader range of what is on offer! I am also rather partial to pastries and cakes, so afternoon tea definitely ticks all my boxes and I am determined to try out as many places as I can in 2015.

 

I have been hearing a lot of great things about the Brabazon and The Cellar restaurants in Tankardstown House Hotel so when I heard that afternoon tea was also available, I decided to journey up to County Meath and sample it. I know, I know... it's a tough life!

 

Driving through the gates of Tankardstown House, you are immediately struck by the beauty of the lovingly restored Georgian house and the magnificent grounds. The owners Brian and Patricia Conroy have created something that is, in many ways, spectacular and totally sympathetic to the original architecture of the estate. The gardens are immaculate with high stone walls dividing the courtyard and garden areas creating spaces that you just want to explore further.

 

Afternoon tea is served in a restored cottage located off the same courtyard area that also houses Tankardstown’s other two restaurants. Weather permitting, afternoon tea can also be enjoyed in a dedicated Tea Garden area, but unfortunately conditions were a little unpredictable on the day I visited so this was not really an option.

 

Mismatched crockery sets the tone for the afternoon tea, which is relaxed without being stuffy or overly formal. A range of teas, including herbal teas are available, as is coffee. In keeping with tradition I opted for tea, choosing a strong breakfast blend as this suited my particular humour on the day. A large pot was duly delivered to my table along with a three tiered stand of edible delights. A tea cosy kept the tea warm and added a quaint note, reminding me of times spent having tea with my grandmother who always insisted on keeping a pot of tea warm in this manner rather than be allowed go slowly cold. The tea was strong with a robust flavour – just the way I like it! On a whim, I decided to have a glass of Prosecco, which was suitably dry and pleasantly fizzy.

 

Each of the plates making up the three tiered stand was crammed with delicious things to eat. The top plate held sandwiches, the middle tier a selection of cakes and pastries and the bottom tier had fruit scones with butter, jam and cream.

 

I decided to start from the top with the sandwiches, each of which was presented as open-topped so that you could easily see its constituent elements. The selection included:

• Rare Roast Beef with Sliced Cornichon & Mustard Dressing on Brown Bread
• Smoked Salmon with Horseradish Cream & Chives on White Bread
• Goats Cheese & Red Onion Marmalade on White Bread
• Smoked Chicken, Red Pepper & Brie on Brown Bread

Whilst all were lovely, my favourite of these bite-sized treats was the roast beef which I felt worked very well with the piquancy of the cornichon and mustard dressing. The cream cheese/red onion marmalade combo was simple, but equally delicious. Perhaps it’s conditioning over many years, but I would have preferred the smoked salmon on thinly cut brown soda bread rather than the white bread, but this is only a minor point and a personal preference.

 

I decided to try out the scones next. Our waitress informed us that they were made by Slane Bake, the ‘little sister’ of Tankardstown House and that the bakery was also responsible for all the cakes, pastries and breads laid out before us. The scones were lovely, with a slightly chewy crumb and just the right amount of dried fruit. A good dollop of a well-flavoured raspberry jam and some whipped cream turned them into an indulgent treat, perfect for eating between sips of tea.

 

The choice of cakes and pastries was varied and included:

• Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Icing
• Chocolate-dipped, Cream-filled Éclair
• Bakewell Slice
• Red Velvet Cupcake
• Vanilla Cupcake with Chocolate Fudge Icing
• Chocolate Biscuit Cake ‘Truffles’

Of these, the two stand-outs were the carrot cake and the bakewell slice, both of which were full of flavour, with a wonderful moist texture and not at all dry. The least successful of the cakes and pastries were the Biscuit Cake Truffles, which were a bit mealy in the mouth, but they did have a lovely taste. At this stage, my appetite was well satisfied, but I still managed to finish everything that was put before me.

 

The afternoon tea in Tankardstown was absolutely charming and was wonderful way to spend a leisurely afternoon. The food was lovely and the service exemplary.

 

In fact, the only negative thing that I have to say about the experience was in relation to the condition of many of the roads in County Meath. I have never seen potholes like the ones that I encountered that day… there are so many wonderful places to visit in this beautiful county, including Tankardstown House, that one would be hopeful that Meath County Council is prioritising the repair and upkeep of its roads to encourage more visitors to the area.

 

Compared to many of the afternoon teas that are available, this one is very reasonably priced and highly recommended.

 

Cost:

Afternoon Tea for Two €40

Sparkling Afternoon Tea for Two (with Prosecco) €50

Tattinger Afternoon Tea for Two €65

 

Opening Hours: Saturday & Sunday 1pm-5pm

 

Tankardstown House Hotel

Rathkenny

Slane

County Meath

 

Tel: 041 9824621

Web: www.tankardstown.ie

 

Lemon & Yuzu Juice Meringue Pies

I have always had a soft spot for Lemon Meringue Pie (or LMP); on the one hand it looks  frivolous and decadent in a very retro way but, on the other, when made well with REAL lemons, it is full of beautifully balanced flavours and textures. We have the good ol’ U. S. of A to thank for this wonderful pie; this is not some effete and delicate piece of French patisserie but rather a confection that shouts ‘look at me’! Whilst meringue-topped lemon pies do have their origins in French cookery, they are not the pies that I’m thinking of here. No! LMP is brash, it’s ostentatious and I love the big, bold beauty of it with the soft meringue piled mile-high on top of the set lemon custard enriched with butter and egg yolks which also serve to intensify the golden yellow colour.

 

America may claim Apple Pie as its national pie but for me I always associate LMP with the States as it was in a 1960s magazine article celebrating American Independence Day that my grandmother first came across the recipe that she used to make it from, from that day forward… and believe me she was regularly asked to make it for family occasions and get-togethers. Her LMP was legendary and much beloved by friends and family.

 

After the austerity of the post-War period in much of Europe, LMP must have seemed so extravagant and hedonistic but, that’s exactly what I find so appealing; it IS over-the-top and it is definitely self-indulgent but it also tastes so darn delicious! For a lemon lover like me there can be no better dessert.

 

Although I usually prefer to make one large single pie, here I have made 6 smaller but generously sized individual pies – there’s just something so nice about being served something that’s all for you!

 

I was recently given a bottle of yuzu juice, possessing an intensely citrus flavour which is hard to describe (somewhere between that of grapefruit and mandarin mixed together) and decided to add some of this to the pie filling. I loved the resulting flavour combination which somehow managed to make the lemon taste more of lemon, but with a background fragrance that hinted at the exotic. I would have loved to have used freshly squeezed yuzu juice, but unfortunately it is a fruit which, originating from Japan is somewhat challenging to source on this side of the world. If you don’t have yuzu juice you can of course leave it out and you will still have the most delicious Lemon Meringue Pie(s).

Ingredients:

Pastry:
200g plain flour
50g icing sugar

85g butter, cubed

1 egg yolk

1-2 tblsp cold water

Filling:

2tblsp cornflour

100g caster sugar*

Finely grated zest of 2 lemons

125ml lemon juice

50ml yuzu juice (optional) or use same amount of lemon juice instead*

150ml water

85g butter

1 large egg

3 egg yolks

Meringue:

4 egg whites

200g caster sugar

2tsp cornflour

*If using lemon juice instead of the yuzu juice increase the sugar for the filling to 115g
 

Method:

Pastry:

1. Sieve the flour and icing sugar into a large mixing bowl. Add the butter and using your fingertips, rub it into the flour until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs.

2. Make a well in the centre and add the egg yolk and cold water. Using a fork, mix everything until it comes together and forms a dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly to shape into a ball. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

To blind-bake the pastry:

3. Preheat oven to 200C/Fan Oven 180C/Gas Mark 6.

4. Roll out the pastry to about ½ cm thick and use to line 1 x 23cm round fluted flan tin with removable base or 6 x 10cm individual tins (about 4cms deep). Trim and neaten the edges and pr1ck the pastry base(s). Fill with crumpled non-stick baking parchment and then fill this with baking beans.

5. Place the flan tin(s) on a large baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, before carefully removing the baking parchment and beans and baking for a further7-8 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown and cooked through. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

6. Lower the oven to 180C/Fan Oven 160C/Gas Mark 4.

To make the filling (do this while the pastry is blind-baking):

7. Place the cornflour, sugar and lemon zest into a medium sized saucepan and gradually add the lemon juice. Add the yuzu juice (or more lemon juice) and the water and place over a moderate heat.

8. Stir the mixture constantly until it starts to simmer and begins to thicken. Remove from the heat and add the butter, mixing it in until it is fully incorporated. Next, add the whole egg, the egg yolks and mix in thoroughly with a small whisk. Return the mixture to a low heat and stir until the mixture begins to thicken significantly.

9. Remove from the heat and set aside while you make the meringue.

To make the meringue:

10. Place the egg whites in a scrupulously clean, large mixing bowl and whisk to the soft peak stage using a hand-held electric mixer. Add the sugar gradually whisking well after each addition. Sift in the cornflour and whisk this in also until completely incorporated.

To finish:

11. Pour the lemon filling into the baked pastry case(s). Top the lemon filling with the meringue – either spooning it on or piping it - starting at the outside edge and moving towards the centre. Return the pie to the oven for approximately 20 minutes or until the meringue is a very pale golden colour. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a couple of hours before serving.

Makes 6 individual small pies or 1 x 23cm pie.

 

Apple Turnovers

Shhhh… I’ll let you in on a little secret… You can make these Apple Turnovers using bought puff pastry! Shocking, I know! The truth is; yes… I do make my own puff pastry from time-to-time, but more often than not, I buy an all-butter version which I find more than adequate for most of my baking needs. Making your own puff pastry is actually relatively simple to do but it you need to have some spare time so that the dough can relax and chill between folding.

If you do use pre-prepared puff pastry, this is a very easy recipe to conjure up and it takes relatively little effort to produce these pastries which taste delicious. I have kept everything very simple and have filled them with lightly cooked apple flavoured with cinnamon, but you can vary the fruits, depending on what takes your fancy or what you have to hand. The turnovers make a lovely sweet breakfast treat or mid-morning snack with a cup of coffee or tea, but can of course be enjoyed at any time of the day. They are easy to transport and would be wonderful for a picnic.

I like to eat the turnovers when they are still slightly warm from the oven but they are also delicious eaten at room temperature.

 

Whilst I have suggested using commercially made puff pastry here, you can by all means try making your own and in fact, I think that it is something that any keen baker should try at least once. I’ll be posting my recipe and the various stages involved in making puff pastry, in the next couple of weeks, but any good book about baking techniques should have a recipe and instructions in it.
 

Ingredients:

Apple filling:
6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and chopped into small cubes (about 1cm)

25ml apple juice

Juice of 1 lemon

75g caster sugar

½tsp ground cinnamon

To assemble:

375g puff pastry (preferably all-butter)

A little beaten egg for glazing

To finish:

50g icing sugar

½tsp water
 

Method:

Apple filling:

1. Place all the ingredients for the apple filling in a medium sized saucepan and place over a high heat. Bring up to simmering point and then reduce the temperature so that the apples are gently simmering away. Do not cover the saucepan. Allow to simmer for approximately 10-12 minutes until the apples are tender, but are not disintegrating and turning into a purée. Remove from the heat and allow to cool completely.

2. Preheat oven to 200C/Fan Oven 180C/Gas Mark 6. Line a large baking tray with a sheet of non-stick baking parchment and set aside.

To assemble:

3. Using a rolling-pin, roll the puff pastry out on a lightly floured work-surface into a rectangle approximately 45cms x 30cms and about ½cm thick. Trim any rough edges and then divide into 6 squares (15cms x 15cms).

4. Brush the edges of each square with a little water, using a pastry brush. Place a large tablespoon of the apple mixture in the centre of each square and then bring one corner, diagonally over to meet the opposite corner, pressing the edges together to seal. Place sideways, flat on the tray and make a small hole in the top layer of pastry to allow steam to escape.

5. Brush each turnover with a little beaten egg to glaze. Bake in the preheated oven for approximately 20 minutes until the turnovers have puffed up and are a rich golden brown colour. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the baking tray.

To finish:

6. Mix the icing sugar and water together and drizzle over the cooled turnovers.

Makes 6.