Cod, Minted Pea Purée & Bacon Cream Sauce

This dish is so simple in terms of the ingredients used – cod, peas, bacon and cream, but in this recipe, everything comes together to create a dish that taste delicious and in its simple elegance is also beautiful to look at it.

There is something so summery looking about the dish and whilst light on to eat, it also manages to be satisfying at the same time. I am not a great fan of holding formal dinner parties, favouring more relaxed and convivial dining experiences, but this dish is one that would hold its own at either a formal or casual meal.

There may appear to be quite a few ingredients and a number of steps to this recipe, but I promise you that it is simple. You can make the pea purée and the bacon cream sauce in advance and keep them warm until you are ready to cook the fish. As I have noted before, many people are fearful of cooking fish, mainly because they are not confident about it. The thing about this recipe is that the fish really does need to be cooked just before serving, but it only takes a few minutes and if you use the timings that I have given; you really should have no problems.

I know that I have become a bit evangelical in advocating the eating of more fish but there are many varieties on sale, it is quick and easy to cook, is full of essential vitamins and minerals and most importantly it tastes wonderful. My children, who can be a little bit fussy about what they eat, love when I cook this recipe and often request it. Granted, they like it served with chips, but even I will admit that there is something wickedly good about dipping a tasty chip in some of the velvety pea purée.

Ingredients:

4 x 200g cod fillets (try and get good thick ones)
A little vegetable oil
Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper
Squeeze of lemon juice
100g frozen peas, cooked in boiling water until just tender
Pea Purée:
25g butter

1 shallot, finely chopped

500g frozen peas

1 tsp sugar

100ml hot chicken stock

A handful of mint leaves

Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper to season

Bacon Cream Sauce:

150ml milk

8 rashers of smoky bacon sliced into ½ cm strips

6 shallots, sliced

A knob of butter

250ml fish stock (or vegetable)

100ml cream

Sprig of thyme

Method:

Pea Purée:

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan and gently fry the shallot until soft but not coloured. Add the peas and sugar and pour in the stock. Bring to the boil and cook the peas are soft and tender.
2. Strain the peas and shallots, but do not discard the stock. Place the peas and shallots in a blender and add the mint and a little of the reserved stock. Blend to a purée, adding a little more of the stock if required. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary. Set aside and keep warm.
Bacon Cream Sauce:
3. Place the bacon and milk in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Separately melt the butter in a medium sized saucepan and gently fry the sliced shallots for about 5 minutes, but do not allow them to colour. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and add the thyme and continue to sweat gently for a further 5 minutes.
4. Add the fish stock, the cream and the bacon infused milk. Bring to the boil and then reduce heat but allow to simmer gently for 15-20 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve so that you are left with a well-flavoured bacon and shallot cream sauce. Discard the bacon, shallot and other solids. Keep the sauce warm whilst you cook the cod.

To finish:

5. Preheat oven to 200C/Fan Oven 180C/Gas Mark 6. Season the cod with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat a little vegetable oil in a non-stick oven-proof frying pan and place the hot cod into the vegetable oil. Allow to cook for 1 minute and then flip the fish over. Place the frying pan into the preheated oven and allow to cook for 4-6 minutes depending on the thickness of the cod. Remove from the oven and squeeze some lemon juice over the cod.

6. Put a generous spoonful of pea purée in the centre of each serving plate. Scatter a spoonful of cooked peas on top of the purée and place a piece of cooked cod on top. Using a hand blender, froth up the bacon cream sauce and pour some on top of each piece of cod. Serve.
 

Serves 4.
     

Maple Shortbread Biscuits

I continue to be drawn to recipes which are quick and easy to make and which, most importantly, taste delicious. The dough for these biscuits can be made and in the oven baking in no time at all. They are wonderful to eat on their own but also make a lovely accompaniment to ice-cream and other creamy desserts such as crème brûlée or panna cotta.

These biscuits are essentially shortbread, but rather than using sugar, maple syrup is used in its place. This creates a softer than normal dough and as such, I find that it is easier to pipe out individual biscuits rather than try to form them using my hands or stamping out individual biscuits. The smell of warm maple syrup as the biscuits cook is divine, being sweetly smoky with a hint of butterscotch.

 

The anticipation whilst waiting for the biscuits to come out of the oven is almost unbearable.  It is recommended that the biscuits are eaten after they have cooled, but I will admit that is impossible to stop yourself from trying one out as soon as they emerge from being baked.

My daughter Emma and her cousins loved these biscuits and they were quickly wolfed down! The finished biscuits could be dipped in a little dark chocolate if liked but I actually prefer them as they are and unadorned as I think that the maple syrup adds a complexity of flavour that does not require the addition of chocolate.

These biscuits may contain very few ingredients, but they are definitely more than the sum of their parts in taste terms!

Ingredients:

125g butter, softened

80ml maple syrup

½ tsp vanilla paste
110g plain flour
35g cornflour

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 180C/Fan Oven 160C/Gas Mark 4.  Line a large baking tray with non-stick baking parchment.
2. Place the butter, maple syrup and vanilla paste into a mixing bowl, and using a hand-held electric mixer, beat together until light and fluffy. Sieve the flour and into the bowl and using a wooden spoon work into the creamed butter mixture, making sure that it is fully incorporated.
3. Spoon the mixture into a disposable piping bag fitted with a large star nozzle. Pipe out individual 24 biscuits onto to the parchment-lined baking tray, leaving space between each biscuit. Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes until a light golden colour. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the tray for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to finish cooling.

Makes 24.

   

Roasted Cod & Parma Ham with Peppers

Fish is the ultimate in fast food, and is easily pan fried or roasted and ready to serve within a matter of minutes. I used to be very wary of cooking fish mainly because I was so scared of overcooking it, but I find that initially pan-frying it and then finishing it off in the oven works a treat and cooks the fish perfectly.

When cooked, cod should not be dry and fibrous, but rather should still retain some moistness and flake apart easily in bite sized pieces.

I really love the simplicity of this dish; the cod and peppers combination is absolutely delicious. The peppers can be prepared beforehand and gently heated in the oil just before serving. In fact, the peppers are a wonderful dish in their own right and I often make them to serve along with cured meats and other vegetables as part of an Italian inspired antipasti platter. If you’re not a fan of capers, leave them out, but personally, I think they add a little something extra to the finished dish.

This is a perfect dish for summer, being both light on the palate and satisfying to eat at the same time.

Ingredients:

4 cod fillets, skinned and boned (about 125g each)
4 slice of Parma ham
Juice of half a lemon

Peppers:

3 large red peppers

3 large yellow peppers

125ml olive oil

Sprig of rosemary

4 cloves garlic, peeled and bruised

1tblsp of capers from a jar, rinsed

Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

A few leaves of basil, cut into fine shreds

Balsamic vinegar for sprinkling
 

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 220C/Fan Oven 200C/Gas Mark 7. Wrap each cod fillet with a slice of Parma ham and refrigerate until ready to cook.

2. Place the peppers in a small roasting and drizzle over half the olive oil. Add a spring of Rosemary and the bruised garlic cloves to the oil and cook in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes until the skins of the peppers start to blister.

3. Remove from the oven (but leave and place the peppers in a large bowl and cover tightly with cling film – this will make it easier to remove the skins. Allow to cool slightly and then, using a small knife, peel the skins and remove the seeds (these can be discarded). Cut the peppers into strips about 1cm wide and set aside in a clean bowl. Strain the reserved roasting oil through a sieve on to the peppers and add the remaining oil.

Cod:

4. Add a tablespoon of olive oil to an oven-proof frying pan on a medium heat. Season the Parma ham wrapped cod fillets with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and then fry in the hot oil for about a minute each side, add a generous squeeze of lemon juice and then place the pan in the hot oven for 4-5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the cod fillets.

To serve:

5. Mix the capers and the shredded basil into the peppers. Divide the peppers between 4 serving plates and sit a cooked ham wrapped piece of cod on top of each. Drizzle with a small amount of balsamic vinegar and serve.
 

Serves 4.
 

Summer Puddings

So many desserts seem to rely upon the use of lots of butter, sugar, cream and eggs in order to achieve something fitting for the end of a meal. The reality is that this doesn’t always have to be the case and these mini summer puddings are a perfect example of an alternative to all those rich desserts that seem to dominate.

Basically these puddings, which are served chilled are made from stale bread and very slightly sweetened summer berries. It is up to you which berries you use, but I like to use raspberries, redcurrants, cherries strawberries and some blackcurrants, but I have also made a version using dessert gooseberries and white-currants which I flavoured with a little elderflower syrup – a most unusual but very refreshing alternative.

This is the perfect dessert on a hot summer’s day and despite its inherent simplicity manages to look incredibly beautiful and extremely elegant.

At most, I serve these puddings with a small dollop of lightly whipped cream, but a chilled crème anglaise would also work very well and add a restrained touch of luxury to the dish.
 

Ingredients:

500g soft summer fruits made up of raspberries, redcurrants, cherries, strawberries and a small amount of blackcurrants
2tblsp sugar (or to taste)
8-10 slices of slightly stale white sliced bread, cut into fingers.
1tblsp cassis or framboise

Method:

1. Using a flavourless vegetable oil, lightly grease 4 mini pudding basins or dariole moulds and then line each basin with cling film, leaving enough to fold over the top of each basin when it is filled. Set aside.
2. Mix all the fruits and sugar together in a large bowl. Remove half of the fruits and roughly mash with a fork in a metal sieve set over a bowl to catch the juices. Return the mashed fruit to the bowl with the whole fruit and reserve the fruit juices.
3. Cut out four rounds of bread, the size of the base of each pudding basin. Dip each round into the juice and place one in the bottom of each pudding basin. Next dip each bread finger into the juice and use these, slightly overlapping to line the sides of each pudding basin.

4. Spoon the fruit into the bread lined basins making sure that it is tightly packed in. Finally curt out a round of bread to fully cover the top of each basin, again dipping each round in the fruit juices as before. Fold the excess cling film over the top of each pudding and sit something heavy on top of each pudding to weight it down. Refrigerate overnight so that each pudding has the chance to firm up.

5. When ready to serve, unwrap the cling film from the top of each pudding and invert onto a plate, removing the rest of the cling film. Serve with a dollop of softly whipped cream, if desired.

Serves 4.

Apple & Custard Puffs

Some of the dishes that I cook are created almost by accident, using ingredients from the back of the kitchen store cupboard or from leftovers. I love cooking like this, because there’s no specific recipe, just the germ of an idea which hopefully results in something tasty to eat. I have to admit that I am often surprised by how delicious some of these ad hoc ‘accidental’ creations can be. These pastries were absolutely delicious and could be easily adapted to include other fruits.

The following recipe is a perfect case in point. I had some leftover crème patisserie from another recipe that I was experimenting with. In the Western World, we are regularly given statistics about how much food we throw away and each year. I’m not going to get on my soap-box about this, except to say that I believe that there is something almost immoral about this considering how many millions of people in the world don’t have enough food to eat and face the horrors of real starvation every day. Consequently, I consider that there is an onus on us to respect the fact that most of us in Ireland have enough to eat and are fortunate enough to have a huge variety and choice of foods on offer. We can best do this by not immediately opening the rubbish bin every time we have some foods remaining or approaching their ‘use-by’ dates.

I had a few apples in the fruit bowl and decided to stew some to serve with custard, which would have been delicious in itself and a good way of trying to cajole the children into eating some fruit. I then remembered that I also had some puff pastry trimmings leftover from a tarte tatin that I had made the previous day, so I decided to use that up as well. Rather than bake my little apple puffs, I decided that I would deep-fry them…mainly because I wanted to see how the puff pastry would react when deep-fried.

I have to tell you these apple and custard puffs were a true revelation and reinforced many of my beliefs regarding leftovers. Previous generations were so adept at using everything they had to hand and created delicious meals to eat. In our consumer driven world with its throw-away mentality, we would do well to learn a few lessons from the past.

Ingredients:

Crème Patisserie:
2 large egg yolks
30g caster sugar

7g plain flour

7g cornflour

175ml milk

½tsp vanilla paste

Apple Compote:

1 cooking apple, peeled, cored and cut into 2cm chunks

2 eating apples, peeled, cored and cut into 2cm chunks

1tblsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1tblsp caster sugar

To finish:

350g puff pastry

1 egg, lightly beaten

Caster sugar and ground cinnamon for sprinkling on finished pastries

Vegetable oil for frying
 

Method:

Crème Patisserie:
1. Place the egg yolks and sugar in a medium sized bowl and whisk until they are well mixed together. Add the flour and cornflour and mix again to fully incorporate. Set aside.
2. Separately, heat the milk and vanilla paste together in a medium saucepan over a moderate heat until just simmering. Remove the pan from the heat and slowly pour the milk on to the egg mixture. Pour this mixture back into the saucepan and place over a low to moderate heat. Stir continuously until the mixture starts to thicken and bubble. Allow to cook for one further minute and then remove from the heat. Transfer the contents into a clean bowl. Cover the surface of the custard directly with cling film and set aside to cool.

Apple Compote:

3. Put all the ingredients into a small saucepan over a moderate heat and bring to a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally. Once the apples have broken down a little (after about 5 minutes), remove from the heat and transfer the apple compote into a clean bowl and set aside to cool.

To finish:

4. Roll out the puff pastry until it is about 3mm thick. Using a 12-15cm round cutter, stamp out rounds from the pastry. Put a teaspoon of crème patisserie and a teaspoon of apple compote side-by-side in the centre of each round. Brush around the edge of each circle with a little beaten egg and then fold one half of the pastry over to meet the other side, pressing down and crimping the edges to encase the filling.

5. Meanwhile heat some vegetable oil in a deep-fat fryer until it reaches 170C. Fry the filled pastries in batches of 3 or 4 for about 6 minutes, turning them around with a metal slotted spoon so that they colour evenly. The pastries are ready when they have puffed up and are a rich golden brown colour.

6. Carefully remove from the heat and gently roll in caster sugar in to which you have added a little ground cinnamon.
 

Makes 8-10.