Seville Orange Marmalade

Marmalade is one of those foods that really seem to have gone out of fashion. Whereas once it was commonplace on the breakfast table, these days the trend seems to be more towards breakfast cereals and foods that can be quickly consumed. I think that this is a dreadful shame as there is something so unique about the taste of a good orange marmalade made with Seville oranges. I should point out that I am by no means suggesting that the preserve can only be used at breakfast time; as a fervent marmalade devotee I believe you should consume it when and wherever takes your fancy!

A good marmalade is initially sweet on the tongue but this quickly gives way to a bitterness, which truly celebrates the flavour of the oranges that are used. Seville oranges are not your usual type of orange. Firstly they are quite tart and definitely need the addition of some type of sweetness to halt their sour bitterness; but it is this very quality that makes them ideal for use in making marmalade. Secondly they are usually only available in January/February of each year. Although January is without a doubt the dreariest of months – a month to endure and just get through – the one thing that definitely brightens it for me is the arrival of Seville oranges in the grocery shop.

There is nothing like homemade marmalade. It just tastes so delicious. To me toast with marmalade is comfort food of the highest order. If also accompanied with a large mug of my favourite tea, it’s one of those things that will always manage to make me feel as if all’s right with the world.

 

Yes it is time consuming to make your own marmalade from scratch, but if you like the taste of marmalade, the sense of achievement you will feel seeing the newly potted jars of the preserve with their jewel-like coloured contents sparkling at you, is great to experience.

 

Normally, I prefer to be hands on in the kitchen and will forgo the use of kitchen gadgets, opting to get stuck in with my hands instead. When juicing citrus fruits for recipes, I usually use the carved wooden juicer that I have had for years… but NOT when I am making marmalades. It is labour intensive having to juice so many fruits. More juice always seems to get on me than in the container/jug into which I am trying to squeeze the extracted juice. For this reason I always hunt out from the back of the kitchen cupboard, the electric citrus juicer that my husband and I were given as a gift on our wedding day and it really does the job so effectively. The electric juicer may only see the light of day a couple of times during the year, but on those occasions, it is invaluable and I always think fondly of the person who gave it to us!

 

To sterilise your jars, wash them well in hot soapy water and then rinse thoroughly. Place in a baking tray in a low oven to dry completely.

 

Ingredients:

1kg Seville oranges
3.4 litres of water

2kg granulated sugar

Juice of 2 lemons
 

Method:

1. Halve the oranges and squeeze the juice into a large saucepan.
2. Scoop out the pips, pith and any remaining pulp and place into a sieve. Put the orange skins/peel to one side.
3. Using a wooden spoon squeeze as much residual liquid into the saucepan as you can get. Don’t discard the pips, pith and pulp, but rather tie it up in a square of muslin and add to the saucepan with the liquid.

4. Chop the orange peel into fairly fine shreds, or as I prefer chop it coarsely. Also add this to the saucepan. Add the water and lemon juice and leave everything to soak overnight.

Next day:

5. Place 4 small saucers in the freezer to chill for use later in testing setting point.

6. Put the saucepan over a moderate heat and bring up to a simmer. Allow to simmer for approximately 2 hours until the peel has softened. You may need less time if you have shredded the peel finely.

7. Remove the muslin bag and squeeze out as much liquid as you can. Weigh the juice and simmered peel. There should be 1500g – 1600g. If there is less, add a little extra water to bring it up to 1500g.

8. Add the sugar to the saucepan and heat everything over a low heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until the sugar dissolves.

9. When the sugar has dissolved, increase the heat and bring up to the boil. Do NOT stir whilst the marmalade is boiling. After 8-10 minutes test for setting point.

Testing for setting point:

10. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the bubbling mixture to calm down a little and the bubbles subside. Spoon a little liquid onto one of the saucers from the freezer. Wait 30 seconds and push the marmalade along the plate with your finger. Setting point has been achieved when the marmalade “wrinkles” and the marmalade is not runny. If it’s not at setting point, return the saucepan to the heat and boil for a further 2 minutes. Test again and repeat this process as necessary. To be honest I use a sugar thermometer, and once you it hits 105C, setting point has been reached!

11. Leave the marmalade to stand for 15 minutes and is starting to thicken. Spoon off any scum and discard.

12. Pot up the marmalade into sterilised jars, seal and label. Store in a cool, dark cupboard for up to a year.

 
Makes 1.5kg approximately.

     

A Really Simple Pea Soup!

The weather has been a little chilly and wintry lately and it seems that the obvious foods to cook and eat are warm and comforting stews and other similar type dishes. Thankfully, the days are beginning to lengthen and in no time at all spring will be here. Whilst I love autumn and winter and the rich and tasty foods on offer, there are times when I want to eat something that helps stave off the cold feeling in my bones but is not heavy to eat. This soup really satisfies these requirements and with its perky green colour it almost anticipates the lovely summery ingredients and produce that will start appearing as spring approaches.

Homemade soups are so easy to make and can be prepared and be ready to dish up in relatively little time. I use frozen peas for this soup and they really work a treat. Some people might turn their noses up at the use of frozen peas, but in my opinion they are far superior to the mealy fresh peas, that have been hanging around for too long and are so often available during the summer. Except for those times when I have my own hone-grown peas freshly picked from the garden available, I would always use frozen peas.

 

As with any green soup, the less you simmer it the better. I blitz this soup in the blender as soon as the peas are cooked so that the vibrancy of its colour is not lost. I also serve it immediately, with a swirl of fresh cream, a few whole peas and some freshly chopped mint. The soup will still taste fabulous if reheated or made ahead of time but the colour may dull a little.

 

I sometimes pass the soup through a fine sieve and whilst this does produce a silky smooth soup, it really isn’t absolutely necessary… do what’s easy for you. The soup will still be delicious.

 

The photographs that accompany this post show the soup presented in white soup bowls, but if you really want to emphasize the beautiful green colour, ladle the soup into blue or turquoise coloured bowls.

 

This is also a great soup to serve chilled in summer on those hot days when you want something easy to prepare, but refreshing to eat.

 

Ingredients:

25g butter

1 onion, chopped

2 sticks of celery roughly chopped

1 x 400g bag of frozen peas

A handful of fresh mint, roughly torn

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to season

500ml hot vegetable stock

To serve:

A little cream

Some small mint leaves to garnish

 

Method:

1. Melt the butter in a medium sized saucepan over a moderate heat. Add the onions and celery and sweat, without colouring for about five minutes or until soft. Tip in the peas (still frozen is fine) and add the torn mint. Season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the hot stock and bring up to a simmer (do not cover the saucepan with a lid). Simmer for about 7-8 minutes until the peas are cooked.

2. Remove the saucepan and blitz the peas in a blender until you have a smooth soup. If liked you can then pass the soup through a fine wire sieve – this will produce a very smooth soup, but it is not necessary.

3. Return the soup to a clean saucepan and heat gently heat through to bring it back up to temperature.

4. Serve hot with a swirl of cream, some whole peas and small sprigs of mint.

 

 Serves 4-6.
  

    



St. Tola Goats' Cheese & Chive Scones

Scones are so easy to make and can be rustled up and are ready to serve in no time at all. Whilst I am partial to sweet white scones served with jam and cream (of course), I also love savoury versions.

This recipe is essentially a simple cheese scone, but I have added a couple of tablespoons of freshly chopped chives because I love their mild onion flavour, which adds a sweet note and also complements the flavour of the hard goats’ cheese that I have also used. I was going to add some English mustard powder to give a little sweet heat but I felt that this might compete with the goats’ cheese. I do add mustard powder when I am making cheddar cheese scones, because its presence almost makes the cheddar seem more cheddar-y!!! I have deliberately omitted it here.

Scones are essentially a quick bread and I really cannot stress enough how quick these are to make. It takes about five minutes to prepare the dough and then another ten minutes or so to bake them. I recommend eating them still warm from then oven, split in half and spread with butter which melts slightly into the still warm crumb… HEAVEN!

The weather is still quite wintery but thankfully, now that the Winter Solstice has passed the days are beginning to lengthen and hopefully Spring is just around the corner. In any event, I was still feeling in the need of something warming to eat so I made a simple pea soup. I wanted something to accompany the soup and felt that these scones were just the thing. They were delicious with the soup and I will be making them again.

I love the goats’ cheese/chive combo. I used a hard goats’ cheese, which was almost gouda- like in texture, made by St. Tola Organic Goat Cheese, who are located in County Clare. Ireland has a great artisan cheese making industry and this is one of my favourites and when I am able to get my hands on it, I regularly use it in my cooking.

Anyway, here’s my recipe… Ironically the time that it has taken me to write the preceding paragraphs is actually longer than the time it would take to bake a batch of these tasty scones! One tip I would give whenever making any quick breads such as scones or soda bread – handle the dough as little as possible and do not overwork.

Ingredients:

250g plain flour
1 heaped tsp baking powder
30g butter
150g St. Tola hard goats’ cheese, grated

2 heaped tblsp snipped chives

150ml milk

To glaze:

Some milk or a beaten egg

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 220C/Fan Oven 200C/Gas Mark 7.
2. Sift the flour and baking powder into a mixing bowl. Add the butter and rub into the flour until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the grated cheese and the snipped chives and mix through the flour mixture.
3. Slowly add the milk to give a soft dough (it should not be too sticky, so add the milk slowly as you might not require it all).
4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly to bring together and then roll out to a thickness of about 3cms. Stamp out rounds of the dough using a round 4-5cm cutter. Place on a lightly floured baking tin.

5. Using a pastry brush, brush the tops of the scones with a little milk or beaten egg. Bake in the preheated oven for 8-10 minutes until well risen and golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly before serving, still slightly warm!

Makes 9-10 mini scones.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

My daughter loves these chocolate chip cookies, so I am regularly called upon to bake a batch of them. The great thing about this recipe is that once you have made the dough, it can sit quite happily in the fridge wrapped tightly in cling-film for up to three days until you want to make the cookies.

I tend to bake one tray (6 largish sized cookies) at a time so that they can be eaten as fresh as possible. I like them when they are still slightly warm from the oven. They truly are a sweet, tasty, chocolaty treat. The uncooked dough may also be frozen and hen defrosted completely before baking. As strange as it may sound, and I can’t explain it, but although the cookies are lovely if baked on the day that the dough is made, they are EVEN tastier if the dough is allowed sit in the fridge for at least 24 hours… it just seems to create a better bake! As I said, I can’t explain why this is, but this has definitely been my experience.

Although you can purchase chocolate chips, I tend to buy bars of chocolate with between 50-55% cocoa solids and cut it into rough chunks as I prefer more sizeable chocolate chunks in my cookies. I sometimes add nuts; usually hazelnuts as I think that they go so well with chocolate, but you can leave these out or use a different nut. To be honest, my daughter doesn’t particular like nuts so if I am making a batch at her behest, I tend to leave them out. In this way the recipe is quite adaptable, so I would encourage you to experiment making your additions.

It is also nice to substitute in some white or milk chocolate chunks for the dark chocolate and in my experience children particularly like when a combination of chocolates is used.

Baked and cooled cookies can be stored in an air-tight tin for up to three days.

Ingredients:

225g butter, softened
225g caster sugar

1 egg yolk

½ tsp vanilla paste/extract

½ tsp bicarbonate of soda

250g chocolate chips/chunks

A handful of whole, blanched hazelnuts, roughly chopped (optional)

Method:

1. Put the butter and sugar into a large mixing bowl and using a hand-held mixer, cream together until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolk and the vanilla past/extract and mix again well to fully incorporate.
2. Sieve the flour and the bicarbonate of soda together and using a wooden spoon, mix into the creamed mixture to form a dough. Next add the chocolate chips (and hazelnuts, if using) and mix well to distribute them throughout the dough.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and shape into a log about 30cms long. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate until required.

To bake the cookies:

4. Preheat the oven to 170C/Fan Oven 150C/Gas Mark 3. Line two large baking trays with non-stick baking parchment.

5. Remove the dough log from the fridge and cut into slices about 1½cms thick and place, well-spaced apart on the prepared baking trays. Bake in the pre-heated oven for 17-20 minutes. Keep an eye on them towards the end of the baking time as you do not want them to brown too much. They should be a golden brown colour and cooked through. They will still be quite soft but will firm up on cooling.

6. Leave on the baking trays for 5 minutes before then removing to wire racks to finish cooling.

Makes 18-20 large cookies.

Almond & Fudge Biscuits

These are lovely biscuits and with the added fudge chips/chunks are a change from the ubiquitous chocolate chip cookie. I really like them and as is becoming increasingly apparent in my posts, my gauge for whether a biscuit or cookie is worthy of inclusion in my recipe bank is whether I enjoy it with a cup of a tea. Well, these ones pass that test with flying colours. I love my tea and I like to have something nice to nibble on in the biscuit tin when I am having a cuppa.

Although I love trying out challenging new recipes, I like to develop and I am drawn to recipes that are quick and simple to make but are also full of flavour.

I buy individually wrapped fudge sweets and chop them into chunks myself. Although you could use chocolate flavoured fudge I think that vanilla fudge works the best in this recipe. Even though I haven’t done it here, a couple of balls of stem ginger cut into tiny cubes and added to the dough to give a spicy gingery hit, could also be very nice.

Ingredients:

75g flaked almonds, crumbled roughly
50g vanilla fudge, cut into small chunks about ½cm square
200g plain white flour

½ tsp bicarbonate of bread soda

125g butter, diced

125g muscovado sugar

1 egg

1tsp almond extract

Topping:

25g flaked almonds, crumbled roughly

25g vanilla fudge, cut into small chunks as above

Icing sugar for dusting

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 190C/Fan Oven 170C/Gas Mark 5. Line two large baking trays with non-stick baking parchment.
2. Sift the flour and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl. Add the butter and rub in using your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the sugar, egg, almond extract, flaked almonds and fudge and mix, using a wooden spoon to a fairly firm dough.
3. Turn on to a lightly floured work surface, knead briefly and then shape into a cylinder shaped logged about 25cms long. Cut the dough evenly into 24 rounds and place on the prepared baking sheets well-spaced apart.
Topping:

4. Scatter the fudge and crumbled almonds for the topping over the biscuits on the baking tray, pressing them into the biscuits slightly. Bake the biscuits for about 12 minutes until they are just beginning to turn golden around the edges. Remove from the oven and allow cool for about 5 minutes on the baking tray before removing them to cool completely on wire racks.

5. Dust lightly with icing sugar before serving.

Makes 24.

Blueberry Pie

Blueberries are regularly hailed as a super-food, containing many minerals and elements essential to good health. I have to admit that I remember the very first time that I ever tasted blueberries was in a commercially mass-produced blueberry muffin, which was enjoyable to eat but was in no way indicative of all that the blueberry has to offer!

In my early twenties, I briefly lived and worked in the United States and was introduced to many of the culinary possibilities that blueberries had to offer, above and beyond the ubiquitous muffin – cakes, ice-creams, crumbles, cobblers and cookies to name just a few. Essentially the blueberry is an extremely versatile fruit and one that I believe that we should use more often in the kitchen. Blueberries can also be used in savoury recipes, where they can add a fruity tartness that cuts through the richness of other ingredients.

Although I have a sweet tooth and enjoy eating and making desserts and other sweet treats, I much prefer restrained use of sweeteners in recipes that include soft fruits or berries. Too much sugar can result in a “jammy” consistency which swamps the true taste of the fruit.

One great advantage of blueberries is that they can be frozen very successfully and once defrosted can be used as you would fresh blueberries in a range of recipes. I wanted to post a recipe that really celebrated blueberries and one where they were the main focus of the dish and quite simply, I believe that this recipe for blueberry pie is just the thing to do that.

I have made a slightly adapted version of the sweet shortcrust pastry that I use all the time but I have cut back on the sugar used to sweeten the blueberries. I have also used lemon juice in the filling and some finely grated lemon zest in the pastry as I believe that it serves to emphasize the flavour of the blueberries.

I created a lattice top for my pie, which can be a little fiddly to make, but I just think it looks so pretty. I love the way that the blueberry juices bubble up between the lattice strips during baking to give a really home-cooked feel.

Although I like challenging dishes and love precision in the dishes that I make, the reality is that I am a home cook and taste is the most important thing! I am not a chef – I cook because I love it and for me cooking and creating tasty foods/meals for friends and family is a way of my expressing how much they mean to me. So, this pie may not look absolutely perfect, but it tastes really delicious.

I would recommend serving the pie still slightly warm from the oven with a cold scoop of vanilla ice-cream. I have recently been experimenting with making different flavoured ice-creams and the nutmeg ice-cream that I made was also particularly good with this pie!

Ingredients:

Pastry:
185g plain flour

60g icing sugar

125g butter, cubed

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1 egg yolk

Filling:

500g blueberries, fresh or frozen

85g caster sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

1tsp arrowroot

To glaze:

1 egg white

1-2tsp caster sugar

Method:

Filling:
1. Put the blueberries in a medium sized saucepan with the sugar and half the lemon juice. Heat over a moderate temperature until the mixture starts to bubble and the sugar has dissolved. Allow to simmer for 1-2 minutes and remove from the heat whilst you mix the other half of the lemon juice with the arrowroot in a small bowl. Add this to the saucepan with the blueberries and stir through.

2. Return the pan to the heat and simmer the blueberries for a further 2 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the blueberries to cool completely. Meanwhile, make the pastry.

Pastry:

3. Sift the flour and icing sugar into a large mixing bowl. Add the cubed butter and using your fingertips rub in until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the grated lemon zest and mix through. Add the egg yolk to the flour mixture and using a fork, mix through until a dough starts to form. Tip out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly to form a ball. Cover with cling-film and place in the fridge to chill and relax for about 30 minutes.

To finish:

4. Preheat the oven to 180C/ Fan Oven 160C/Gas Mark 4. Lightly flour a 20cm round, 4-5 cm deep loose bottomed tart tin.

5. Remove pastry from the fridge and divide in two. Roll out half of it to about 4mm thick and use to line the tart tin. Add the cooled blueberries. Brush around the edges of the pie with some of the egg white.

6. Roll out the other half of the pastry to a similar thickness as before and use to top the pie enclosing the blueberries. (You can fashion a lattice top as I have done or just top it with a plain circle of the pastry). Press the edges together. Brush the top of the pie with a little egg white and gently sprinkle with 1 or 2 teaspoons of caster sugar. Place in the preheated oven to cook for approximately 35 minutes until the pie is cooked through and the pastry is golden brown.

7. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly. Serve whilst still warm from the oven.

Serves 6.