Review: A Lunch to Remember in the Samsung Kitchen @ L'Ecrivain

I was recently invited to an exclusive Bloggers’ Lunch in the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain on Baggot Street in Dublin. I have eaten there a number of times but I was delighted to visit again to experience the newly unveiled Samsung Kitchen @ L’Ecrivain. This is a wonderful venue adjacent to the main restaurant which can be booked for private functions and where guests can see for themselves, their meal being cooked by Chef/Proprietor Derry Clarke in the wonderfully sleek and contemporary Samsung kitchen.

 

Bread Selection

Derry was recently selected as the first ever brand ambassador of Samsung’s home appliances range and it is a role that at 58 years old he has embraced with gusto, acknowledging that he was honoured to have been chosen especially as some people may have expected that a younger ‘trendier’ chef would have been selected. Together with his wife Sallyanne, Derry has over three decades’ experience working in the restaurant industry and it is through their joint efforts that L’Ecrivain, which they opened in 1989, was awarded a Michelin star in 2003 and has retained ever since.

 

The dining room is spacious and can comfortably sit 20 people at the long, magnificent table.  Sallyanne recommends that at least twelve people dine at any one time as the room is quite large and smaller parties might get lost. The kitchen is located at the far end of the room in full view of diners. As one of Ireland’s top fine-dining restaurants, Derry recognises that L’Ecrivain is quite formal but hopes that eating in the Samsung Kitchen @ L’Ecrivain is a completely different experience with a more relaxed atmosphere.

 

Beetroot

The intimate nature of the Samsung Kitchen @ L’Ecrivain means that not only do you have the opportunity to watch as the food is prepared but that you also have the chance to ask questions about the ingredients used and the techniques employed to create your meal. For anyone who loves food, this is an experience that is not to be missed and it is fair to say that we were all eagerly looking forward to our lunch.

 

I vividly remember the wonderful breads that were served during my previous visits to L’Ecrivain and again, at our lunch they didn’t disappoint. The White Bread Rolls, Brown Soda Bread and Foccacia were all delicious and we nibbled away happily as we sipped Prosecco and chatted to each other.

 

Organic Salmon

First up was an amuse bouche of Beetroot & Whipped Goat’s Cheese which came served with shards of crispy chicken skin, pecan nut crumbs and was garnished with micro-herbs. This was a beautifully presented dish where everything on the plate served to highlight the sweet and earthy flavour of the roasted beetroot and it was a wonderful precursor to the dishes that were to follow.

 

The next dish of Organic Salmon consisted of Clare Island organic salmon cooked in two different ways, each of which showcased different qualities of the quality fish that was used. The salmon cured in salt, sugar and citrus was outstanding and tasted delicious with the tiny cubes of potato salad and horseradish mayonnaise which accompanied it. Small rings of lightly pickled shallot added piquancy whilst nasturtium leaves imparted a subtle peppery flavour. The other piece of salmon was cooked mi-cuit in a water bath and with a certain amount of drama was smoked under a glass cloche in front of us. I loved the subtle smokiness of the salmon which was succulent to eat and melted in the mouth.

 

Roast Sirloin of Beef

Roast Sirloin of Beef was another seemingly simple but stunning dish. Here beautifully tender 32-day, dry-aged Angus beef was brined for 24 hours before being pan roasted in beef dripping. It was served with mushroom purée, sautéed ceps and caramelised onions. All too often tender cuts of beef such as fillet and sirloin can be lacking in flavour, but here the meat was treated lovingly and with a real understanding of how to intensify the flavour so that each mouthful was a pure joy to eat.

 

I loved the pre-dessert which was a modern re-working of a classic Tiramisu. Each flavour element was deconstructed so that chocolate sponge and chocolate shavings sat side by side with coffee mousse and mascarpone cream. This was an elegant and surprisingly light plate of food but it was also self-indulgent and a little bit naughty like all good desserts should be.

 

Tiramisu

A Lemon Tart was our final dish of the day and was a great end to a thoroughly enjoyable meal. I am a big fan of lemon desserts but I am notoriously difficult to please when it comes to lemon tarts! Without a doubt, this was one of the best that I have ever tasted; I loved the silky texture of the perfectly set lemon custard contrasted against the crisp texture of the thin pastry base. Served with toasted meringues, blackberry sorbet, blackberry gel and fresh blackberries, this was a dish where everything was perfectly balanced.

 

We finished our meal with coffees and a lovely selection of Petits Fours which included a macaron, a raspberry jelly and a tiny choux bun filled with pistachio crème patissière.

 

Lemon Tart

This was a dining experience with a difference and one that I will remember for a long time. It was fascinating watching Derry ably assisted by Tom Doyle, L’Ecrivain’s Head Chef, prepare our meal in the impressive Samsung kitchen. Service was impeccable as one would expect in a restaurant of this calibre and added to our enjoyment of the meal.

 

This is a venue and a concept that would be ideal for corporate and private functions or for informal family get-togethers and I would highly recommend it.

 

Dinner is priced at €85 per person and lunch at €55 per person. Further information about the Samsung Kitchen @L’Ecrivain is available at www.lecrivain.com

 

L’Ecrivain

109a Baggot Street Lower

Dublin 2

 

Telephone: 01-6611919

Derry Clarke

 

Restaurant Review: Wuff, Benburb Street, Dublin 7

I really enjoy eating out and dining in restaurants that I haven’t been to before. Although I predominantly write dinner reviews, I also love documenting my brunch experiences and I am always on the lookout for new places to try. Luckily, brunch seems to be hugely popular these days so there are plenty to choose from. Whilst brunch has taken Dublin by storm there are fewer spots offering it outside the capital and, as I live down the country, I am at a slight disadvantage. As a result, when I get the chance to indulge my brunch lust I jump at it!

 

Wufftini

I recently spent a weekend in Dublin and, on the recommendation of a friend who knows the restaurant well, decided to pop into Wuff located on Benburb Street, not far from Smithfield Market in the heart of the city, to try the brunch offered there.

 

The first thing that strikes you as you walk through its doors is that Wuff is popular. When we arrived shortly after it opened for the day most of the tables were taken and we were fortunate to get the last remaining one. The restaurant feels effortlessly cool and with its bare stone walls, barred windows and sparse wooden tables you almost feel that you are dining in the heart of Queens or Greenwich Village.

 

As we sat there and took in our surroundings we noticed that a queue was forming outside, full of eager diners waiting for tables. Despite the demand for tables we never felt that we were being rushed during our meal, although the service was definitely brisk and efficient. Wuff doesn’t take bookings for brunch so it is well worth getting there early if you want to eat without queuing first.

 

Small Irish

The menu contains all the brunch stalwarts that you would expect to see and also offers a small selection of cocktails… which we felt compelled to sample! My Wufftini was light and full of the fresh early morning flavour of pink grapefruit juice and also included some Grenadine. It was topped up with Cipriano Prosecco and was suitably easy-to-drink for that time of the day. Eithne’s Bellini – made with peach purée and also topped up with Prosecco was another refreshing drink that went down easily.

 

Although tempted by both the Pulled Pork Sandwich (€11.50)which came served in a Waterford Blaa and the Steak Sandwich with Sundried Tomatoes, Onion Marmalade and Cheese (€12.95), I decided to go for a Small Irish (€7.00) which included a large free-range pork and leek sausage, bacon, a fried egg and came served with toasted sourdough bread. Whilst the egg was faultlessly cooked; yielding up its runny interior when pierced with a knife and the bacon was perfectly acceptable, the hero of this dish was definitely the wonderfully flavoursome pork and leek sausage. I think that I would return to Wuff again for this alone – I loved it.

 

Eggs Benedict

Eithne’s Eggs Benedict was another well-executed dish although purists would quibble at the accuracy of its description as the inclusion of spinach would more normally classify it as Eggs Florentine. This aside, the poached eggs were perfectly cooked and nestled invitingly on some wilted spinach and toasted brioche. An excellent hollandaise sauce contained the right amount of acidity to cut through the richness of the overall dish and was absolutely delicious. At €8.95 (or €9.95 with bacon which was the way Eithne had it) this was a competitively priced especially when compared to what some other restaurants are charging for eggs benedict in Dublin.
 

To finish we shared a Warm Sweet Waffle (€6.95) which came with a generous sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts, fresh strawberries, a couple of scoops of vanilla ice-cream and loads of chocolate sauce. This was sweet and sticky and tasted absolutely heavenly. This was the perfect end to an enjoyable meal.

Warm Sweet Waffle

On one hand the brunch menu in Wuff is a little predictable, but the service is good, the surroundings are comfortable and most importantly the food, which is reasonably priced tastes delicious. I would have no hesitation in recommending Wuff’s brunch and look forward to re-visiting and eating some of the other dishes on the menu.

 

Our bill for two came to €47 including cocktails, coffees and optional gratuity.
 

Wuff

23 Benburb Street

Dublin 7

 

Telephone: 01-5320347

Website: www.wuff.ie

 

Review: Afternoon Tea at Farnham Estate Golf & Spa Resort, Cavan

The luxurious Farnham Estate Golf & Spa resort is situated in spectacular countryside not far from Cavan Town and is a lovely mix between the old and the new. Period buildings sit comfortably beside the modern architecture of the newer parts of the hotel. This is a place where guests can enjoy contemporary comforts along with the traditions of years gone by.

 

Afternoon tea in Farnham Estate is an elegant affair served in either the Music Room or in the Middle Drawing Room in the original main house and is available between 1pm and 5pm daily. I was welcomed by Conor who showed me to my table in the Music Room which was dressed with a crisp white linen tablecloth. Seated on a large comfortable couch in the beautiful room which was tastefully decorated in soothing colours, I felt like I was in a different world.

 

Art Deco stand

The Afternoon Tea Menu is nicely laid out with a good range of sandwiches and pastries available. Scones are also included and come with raspberry jam, butter and clotted cream. At €25 per person it is reasonably priced. You can also elect to have a Champagne Afternoon Tea which includes a glass of Moet & Chandon (€40 per person) or Prosecco Afternoon Tea with a glass of Prosecco frizzante (€34 per person), which I decided to go for.  This was served with a small bowl of fresh ripe strawberries which I nibbled on as I sipped my Prosecco and decided which tea to choose.

 

There is a good choice of teas available including black teas, green teas and herbal infusions which are supplied by Ronnefeldt. Tea is taken very seriously in Farnham Estate with each, depending on your choice, requiring different ‘drawing’ times. Loose leaf tea is served in warmed china tea-pots and you are given a little tea-timer which indicates when your tea is ready to pour. Impressed by the selection available I eventually chose the Irish Whiskey Cream – a flavoured malty assam, this black tea has wonderful background notes of whiskey and chocolate. I absolutely loved it.

 

Smoked Salmon

As my tea was drawing, sandwiches, pastries and scones were delivered to the table by Conor. Presented on a pretty 3-tiered Art Deco cake stand they looked extremely tempting and I couldn’t wait to dig in.

 

The sandwiches, all of which use breads that are baked on the premises, are filled with an interesting combination of ingredients. I was very impressed with the breads as each was baked to perfection and full of flavour. The Multigrain Bread, Smoked Salmon, Lime & Tomato Mayonnaise was lovely and was beautifully presented as an open sandwich with the salmon formed into a rosette which was placed on the bread in a decorative fashion.  The mayonnaise was particularly flavoursome and complimented the salmon perfectly.

 

Ham, Cheese, Relish

The next sandwich – a Sour Dough, Porterhouse Cheese, McCarren’s Ham & Ballymaloe Relish was also very good with top quality ingredients used throughout. The mini sour dough baguette was excellent and I loved the sweet fruitiness of the Ballymaloe Relish with the well-flavoured cheese.

 

The final offering, and my favourite, was another open sandwich that looked stunning. Tomato Bread, Vine Cherries, Goat’s Cheese Mousse with Pistachio Crumb was heavenly to eat with flavours that danced in the mouth. All too often tomato breads are bland but this one was packed full of tomato flavour which accentuated the soft creaminess of the goat’s cheese perfectly. The pistachio crumb was a nice touch and added an extra layer of flavour and texture. Delicious!

 

Fruit Tart

At this stage I was feeling very relaxed and was thoroughly enjoying the whole experience so after a short hiatus decided to move on to the pastries. Again, these little bite-sized treats were beautiful to behold and it was obvious that a lot of skill and understanding of the processes involved had gone into making them.

 

The range of pastries was very good and included a Chocolate Brownie which was soft and chewy and made as a brownie should be and a light and airy White Chocolate Cheesecake topped with a tart lime jelly which cut through the sweetness of the white chocolate. These were both very good and well thought-out.

 

I also loved the little Tart with Vanilla Custard & Fresh Soft Fruit. The pastry crumbled pleasingly in the mouth and contrasted well against the creamy filling whilst the fresh fruit cleansed the palate. The tart tasted delicious and was extremely pretty to look at.

 

Carrot Cake

A very well-made Carrot Cake was the final pastry/cake offering. Iced with a sweet but slightly tangy cream cheese frosting this was extremely good. Too often carrot cakes are dry, lack flavour and are engulfed by too much icing. Here, the balance was perfect.

 

Scones provided the finale to the afternoon tea and were very good indeed. Light with a slightly chewy crumb, they were served warm which I really liked. Split and then spread with butter and jam and topped with a dollop of clotted cream, I truly felt as if I hadn’t a care in the world. With the scones, I decided to try another of the wonderful teas offered as part of the Farnham Estate Afternoon Tea and chose Granny’s Garden a fruity herbal infusion made with fresh rhubarb and vanilla bourbon. This was something different to what I would normally choose but I really enjoyed it.

 

Scone, Clotted Cream & Jam

Afternoon Tea in Farnham house was one of the most relaxing afternoons I have had in a long time. You are encouraged to sit back and enjoy the whole experience and you never feel rushed by the wonderful staff. My waiter Conor was highly knowledgeable on all aspects of the afternoon tea and the history of Farnham Estate. Ably assisted by the lovely Ronan, the two of them made the whole experience all the more enjoyable.

 

Radisson Blu Farnham Estate Golf & Spa Resort

Farnham Estate

Cavan

 

Telephone: 049-4377700

Email: info.farnham@radissonblu.com

 

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie

 

Restaurant Review: The Vintage Kitchen, Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2

Trying to get a table for dinner in The Vintage Kitchen proved a little more challenging than I had first anticipated. This is an incredibly popular restaurant which, it emerges, requires booking well in advance in order to secure a much sought-after table especially if you wish to dine on a Friday or Saturday evening. I eventually managed to get a booking for an early Tuesday evening sitting but was warned that my table would be required again at 9pm. Despite this, I was looking forward to dining there and to trying the food for myself.

Bread Selection

The Vintage Kitchen is located in the heart of the city next door to Mulligan’s, the iconic Dublin pub and is not far from O’Connell Street and the River Liffey. The restaurant has 35 covers but given the Lilliputian size of the premises, it’s hard to believe that it is possible to fit that number in at one sitting. Tables are placed extremely close to each other but this, along with its retro-kitsch décor, is part of the charm of The Vintage Kitchen. Dining there is like stepping back into your Granny’s kitchen to a time when Formica was all the rage.

 

The restaurant operates a very appealing BYOB policy charging no corkage provided you order at least two courses, including a main, from the menu. Doubtlessly, this plays a part in its popularity but the real test of a restaurant is the quality of its cooking and the food that it serves.

 

Goat's Cheese Parfait

The dinner menu which is available from Tuesday to Saturday each week is well-constructed and full of tempting classic comfort food dishes. I would quite happily have ordered any of them. As we waited on our starters to arrive we nibbled on slices of a very respectable Malted Wholegrain Loaf that came with a pleasant Hummus dip and chatted with an American couple who were holidaying in Ireland and were dining at the next table.

 

I loved my Boilie Log Goat’s Cheese Parfait starter which included a very generous portion of mild goat’s cheese which was delightfully creamy to eat. Sweet and earthy roasted beetroots accentuated the flavour of the cheese whilst slices of fresh apricot provided welcome freshness on the palate. I particularly liked the inclusion of caramelised red pearl onions which imparted a wonderful bitter-sweet stickiness that was hard to resist. For me, the slow-cooked tomatoes were redundant and added nothing to the dish but overall it was a lovely way to begin the meal. A warm and spicy wasabi dressing was something a little different and worked well.

 

Cod & Lumpfish Caviar

Erica’s starter of Donegal Smoked Haddock Chowder, Chorizo & Wild Samphire came presented in an individual soup tureen/bowl with its own lid which, when lifted, allowed the seductive aromas of the chowder to escape. With the smokiness of the fish and the spiciness of the chorizo, this was a dish that it would have been quite easy to get wrong but it was an incredibly well-balanced and a perfectly seasoned dish. I really enjoyed the addition of the samphire with its gentle flavour of the sea. Put simply, this was one of the most delicious chowders I have ever eaten and looking at the expression on Erica’s face I could see that she agreed.

 

Baked Crepe

My main course of Pan-Fried Atlantic Cod, White Beans, Roaring Bay Mussels, Cajun & Tomato Bisque, with Lump Fish Caviar was another substantial dish but one that was packed full of flavour. The flawlessly cooked cod came away in generous flakes which were lovely with the braised cannellini beans. The dish was beautifully presented and came served with a spoonful of lump fish ‘caviar’ which was placed on top of the cod in a scallop shell. The saltiness of the caviar helped balance out the sweet spiciness of the dish and provided a further layer of flavour.

 

Erica decided to go for the vegetarian main of Baked Crêpe, Carlow Field Mushrooms, Gorgonzola & Spinach which was served with sautéed baby new potatoes. Here, the crêpe had been placed in a small dish which was used as a receptacle into which the rich filling of blue cheese, spinach and sautéed mushrooms was placed before being baked. The dish arrived piping hot to the table with the cheesy filling bubbling away enticing us to dig in immediately. This was comforting and delicious food and the type of dish you would eat to warm you up on a cold and wintry evening.

 

Lemon Cheesecake

Portions are large in The Vintage Kitchen so, feeling quite full, I considered skipping dessert. However, the allure of the Lemon Cheesecake proved too much for me to resist, so we decided to share one between us. Served in an individual Kilner jar this was a surprisingly light mousse-like interpretation of a cheesecake which was topped with a thick layer of tart lemon curd and some boozy autumn berries. It was delicious. Between us, we polished it off. It was the perfect end to a hugely enjoyable meal.

 

Service was extremely efficient and was delivered in a charming and engaging fashion. The Vintage Kitchen is quirky and a fun place to dine in. Most importantly the food is fabulous and the dinner menu at €28 for 2 courses or €34 for 3 courses is extremely competitively priced.
 

The Vintage Kitchen

Poolbeg Street

Dublin 2

 

Telephone: 01-6798705

Website: www.thevintagekitchen.ie

Opening hours:

Lunch: Tuesday to Saturday, 11.45am – 2.30pm

Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday, 5.30pm to 10.00pm

This review first appeared in TheTaste.ie
 

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