Sometimes familiarity
breeds contempt but as I left the bustling town of Westport to drive along the
narrow roads of Mweelrea Mountain on my way to Delphi Adventure Resort
recently, I was reminded what a truly beautiful country Ireland is. Mountain
sheep wander freely here and I had to stop driving a number of times as they
paused in front of my car to gaze disdainfully at me before languorously
strolling away in search of fresh heathers and grasses to graze on. The
Connemara countryside is wild and stunningly beautiful and unlike anything you
would see elsewhere in the world.
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| Bread Selection |
Although the main purpose
of my visit to Delphi was to dine in The Chef’s Table restaurant which opened
there recently, I decided to avail of a relaxing one-night break away in the
luxurious 4 star hotel accommodation which is also available. While Delphi is
renowned for the exciting adventure sports and outdoor activities it offers, I
was in search of something that would give me a chance to unwind after a busy
few weeks. I found my time in Delphi soothing and peaceful and enjoyed every moment.
The Chef’s Table is a new venture by award winning German chef Stefan
Matz, who many people will recognise from his time as Head Chef in Ashford
Castle, The g Hotel and at Erriseask House where he was awarded a Michelin
star.
The restaurant is warm and inviting with an open kitchen where you can
observe Stefan cooking. I was lucky to get seated in a prime position beside
the kitchen and was mesmerised watching the food being prepared. Although an à
la carte menu is available I decided to try the 5 course tasting menu. Feeling in
an indulgent mood I also elected to have the accompanying wine recommendations.
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| Sweet Potato Mousse |
The breads in The Chef’s Table were some of the most interesting that I have
eaten in a long while and included Pine Nut Brioche, Tarragon & Beer
Bread, a Cornbread Roll, Garlic Cracker and Brown Treacle Bread
all of which were well made and packed full of flavour. They came served with
butter, olive oil and a rather addictive Romesco Sauce.
An amuse bouche of Sweet
Potato Mousse, Sweet Potato Crisp and Carrot Leaf came simply presented in
a shot glass. This possessed a clarity of flavour that made it the perfect
opening to the meal. The mousse was light yet rich and creamy which made it
incredibly pleasurable to eat. A successful amuse bouche should be a statement
of intent and an indication of what is to follow. This mousse proved to be
exactly that.
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| Lobster & Porcupine Prawn |
The next dish, a Salad
of Killary Lobster and Porcupine Prawn, Baked Apple & Basil was
beautiful to look at and not at all what I had expected on reading the menu.
The lobster was presented as a paper-thin ribbon of mousse beside a refreshing
salad of apple and prawn bound together in a creamy mayonnaise-type dressing
which also included baked apple gel. A regal looking prawn sat on his salad
throne surrounded by a halo of crisp dried apple. Porcupine prawns - so called
because they are fished from the Porcupine Bank in the Irish Sea - are
flavoursome little devils full of sweet but meaty flavours. Here, the prawn had
been wrapped in threads of potato which were beautifully crispy against the
soft meat of the prawn. I loved it. The accompanying Domain Felines
Jourdan, Picpoul had enough acidity to cut through the richness of the
lobster and prawns and to compliment the freshness of the apple and was a
well-judged pairing.
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| Salmon & Blackcurrant |
Next up was the rather
intriguing Fillet of Wild Salmon with Blackcurrant Vinaigrette. I have
never considered eating salmon with blackcurrants before but this dish was a
revelation. The blackcurrants provided a rich, tart and slightly acidic sauce
that cut through the oily richness of the perfectly cooked top-quality salmon
that had been caught locally in the River Erriff. This was a finely balanced
dish that was exciting to eat. A glass of a light, dry Fleurie, Coeur de
Granit was a perfect match as it didn’t overpower the oily salmon but stood
up well to the blackcurrants.
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| Fillet beef, three ways |
I loved every part of the
Cucumber Granita, Beer Jelly, Olive Oil Gel and Oat Crumb which was then
served. Sorbets are often served as palate cleansers but in many ways the more
crystalline nature of a granita works more effectively in this regard. This was
a delicately presented dish that refreshed the palate yet re-energised it in
preparation for the rest of the meal. I especially loved the beer jelly as its
hop-rich earthiness provided a contrast to the intensely flavoured cucumber
granita. An olive oil gel was an innovative addition that further soothed the
palate.
Moving on, the Angus
Fillet of Beef, Roasted, Smoked and Pickled, Button Mushrooms and Cream
Potatoes, French Duck Foie Gras Crumble was a rich dish with autumnal
overtones. Despite the fact that the wonderfully tender beef was served in
three different ways, unity was achieved by subtle flavour variations and the
use of a wonderful sauce that brought everything together in a cohesive way. A
deeply savoury foie gras crumb provided textural contrast and was delicious.
This was a real crowd-pleaser of a dish and one that would appeal to a broad
audience. Washed down with a glass of a well-rounded and very drinkable Tour
de Mirambeau which was soft and ripe on the palate, I was unable to stifle
my sighs of satisfaction.
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| Goat's Cheesecake |
Baked Goat’s Cheesecake
& Marmalade of Red Bell Peppers was a wonderful transition dish between the
early parts of the menu and the dessert as sweet and savoury were cleverly
balanced. A gently flavoured goat’s cheese had been used to create an
interesting interpretation of a classic cheesecake which was velvety smooth and
a joy to eat.
After all the wonderful
food that I had eaten I was slightly concerned that I would struggle to finish
the final course. I needn’t have worried as the Watermelon, Lime,
Caramelised Ginger & Vanilla Ice-Cream was everything that a great
dessert should be; full of fresh and zingy flavours but still indulgent and a
little bit naughty. Compressed watermelon had been macerated in tomato juice
which was inspired as the slight acidity of the tomatoes cut through the
headily perfumed watermelon which tasted wonderful with the zingy lime curd and
ginger shortbread crumb it was served with. I loved the accompanying La
Grille Rosé D’Anjou with its hint of strawberries and apricot and thought
it was wonderful with the dessert.
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| Watermelon |
Along with Tea or Coffee
the 5 course tasting meal (which included extra courses) came to €49 which for
the quality of the food I ate represented astonishing value. Interesting wine
pairings added to my enjoyment of the meal and also added €35 on to the bill. Stefan
Matz is producing outstanding food packed full of sophisticated flavour
combinations using local ingredients and has developed a menu that has that
most elusive quality – broad appeal. This is superb cooking in a beautiful
location and I would recommend it without hesitation.
The
Chef’s Table by Stefan Matz
Delphi Adventure Resort
Leenane
Connemara
County Galway
Telephone: 095-42208
Web: delphiadventureresort.com
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| Cucumber Granita |
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